Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I acquired a laptop guitar and don't know if it's collectable. It has a solid wood body, triangular shaped, painted black with grey and black spackles, has a 1 1/4" horseshoe pickup, is 6-string, decal on head is a golden "Rickenbacher", two knobs, stamp on metal plate on side of the head reads: "U6775". Plays great, is in what appears to be mint condition with the original hard case. What do you think I have?

Douglas [email protected]

This is a Model 100 or S-100. It dates to the mid 50's. The confusing point is the "Rickenbacher" decal on the headstock. My guess is that it was left over from the late 40's when the spelling was changed.(They were known to do this.)At any rate the model you describe wasn't made before 1955. The series of this model was produced into the mid 70's and is the last lap steel model produced by Rickenbacker.
While these are great playing instruments,they are not very sought after by collectors at the present time.

How about this one? It's in pretty good shape and plays great but I've often wondered about the model and year.

Thanks!

Bill that is in fantastic shape. It is a model B6 and the best method of dating it is from the potentiometer codes. I don't know when the last time was I saw such a beautiful specimen. Welcome to The Rickenbacker Forum.

Is the nameplate original, it looks stainless to me?

Well ... an "unusual specimen" for sure.

That's a prewar body ... string thru with integrated bridge.

They went back to string thru in the 50's ... but with a screw on bridge.

The magnets sure look like 1.25" ers from here ... which is a postwar "thang".

The "T-Logo" is a postwar "thang" too ... circa 1946 to 1948-49.

The most important thing is that body ... with the integrated bridge.

That's what really seperates the "prewars" from the "postwars" (in my opinion) ... not the 1.5" vs 1.25" magnets. Having that bridge ... really kicks up the sustain.

So it appears this was put together after the war ... with some left over parts from before the war.

Either by RIC (a not uncommon practice) ... or someone else.

Its a "dandy" ... no matter what !!!

Peter,
The nameplate is original as far as I know and is stainless steel. I bought the guitar about 20 years ago a record store (as is). How do you check the potentiometer codes?
Thanks!
Bill

Pop the pot plate off and flip it over, then look at the codes on the underside of the pots.

Good eye Rick. Thanks for your interesting points. It is always intriguing to discuss Lap Steels. Should I get one to start out as a beginner, any recommendations.

Thanks Wrenchenbacker. If you take the plate off, I would love to see some photos of it under the hood and also some closeup shots of the integrated bridge of which Rick speaks so highly.

Yes, I will take the cover off tonight or tomorrow and post the result via photo. Thanks for all the help. This site is awesome!

Wrench

Hey guys, I chickened out I got to the pots but I was affraid to pull that aluminum cap off. Here are some more pics though.

Wrenchenbacker

Peter,
I would go for it. Get a steel guitar, and send the cows running to the ho-down!
I personally have never played one so I have no room to speak, but they sound awesome!

You just need to turn the pots over, the date codes will be on the back, if they are there. You may need to undo the jack as well to lift the wiring assembly up. Just be cautious, and you should be fine.

Peter, the steel is a completely different animal. I have a LONG way to go before being able to do much useful, but used a Gibson double 8 and a Rick triple 8 (both consoles) on my last album. The Console 508 on Bjorn's site is mine. I also have a Miller pedal steel that I'm still trying to figure out. You should check out the latest Yes DVD, Songs from Tsongas, and see Mr. Howe rip it up on his Fender.

Interesting! I saw no writing on the back of the pots. What does that mean?

Many times the codes are on the edges of the pots.