PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Moderator: jingle_jangle
-
- New member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:43 pm
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
I'll be starting this project in the next day or so. Would it be helpful for peeps if I posted step-by-step photos of the Scratch-X/Zymol procedure from start to finish? (Maybe such a thing already exists here, but I haven't found it.)
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Sure, we always like pictures, especially ones that tell a story, or show how to do stuff...
I have NO idea what to do with those skinny stringed things... I'm just a bass player...
-
- New member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:43 pm
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
. . . or, as may turn out to be the case, how not to do stuff . . .
- jingle_jangle
- RRF Moderator
- Posts: 22679
- Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 6:00 am
- Contact:
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
I want to bump this up to the top for the numerous newer members who may not have seen it back in 2006-2010!
- 8mileshigher
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4871
- Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 12:34 pm
PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Paul, thanks for bumping this "Primer". It should serve the new members well.
I have a question related to an oil finish Rickenbacker (such as a 650 Dakota). Once wood has been oiled like this, and touched up over the years, can you ever really remove that oil from the wood, with sanding and paint remover chemicals, etc. if someone wanted to refinish such a guitar in a painted finish ?? Or is the situation that once a Dakota, its always that way for life ?
I have a question related to an oil finish Rickenbacker (such as a 650 Dakota). Once wood has been oiled like this, and touched up over the years, can you ever really remove that oil from the wood, with sanding and paint remover chemicals, etc. if someone wanted to refinish such a guitar in a painted finish ?? Or is the situation that once a Dakota, its always that way for life ?
- jingle_jangle
- RRF Moderator
- Posts: 22679
- Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 6:00 am
- Contact:
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
The oil does dry out over time. I would not paint (for instance) one of the Vermilion 650s due to color bleeding, but the Walnut and Maple 650s are fair game.
The walnut would have to be dry (not recently oiled) and I'd use conversion varnish as a sealer under color. The open pores should be filled first; I use a water-based microballoon sealer which can be bought at Stew-Mac or LMI.
Once the CV sealer is cured, it should be sanded flat and dull with #320. Solid color can be applied right over the CV, then additional coats of CV should be applied on top, flatted and buffed.
If the new color is a pearlescent or metallic, I use a polyester primer (Evercoat) over the sanded CV. I then wet sand the polyester primer with #600 before I apply color. Any scratches greater than #600 will show under pearls and metallics.
The walnut would have to be dry (not recently oiled) and I'd use conversion varnish as a sealer under color. The open pores should be filled first; I use a water-based microballoon sealer which can be bought at Stew-Mac or LMI.
Once the CV sealer is cured, it should be sanded flat and dull with #320. Solid color can be applied right over the CV, then additional coats of CV should be applied on top, flatted and buffed.
If the new color is a pearlescent or metallic, I use a polyester primer (Evercoat) over the sanded CV. I then wet sand the polyester primer with #600 before I apply color. Any scratches greater than #600 will show under pearls and metallics.
- 8mileshigher
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4871
- Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 12:34 pm
PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Thanks for the info, Paul ! I will keep these possibilities in mind, if I happen to come across a bargain priced Dakota one of these days ....jingle_jangle wrote:The oil does dry out over time. I would not paint (for instance) one of the Vermilion 650s due to color bleeding, but the Walnut and Maple 650s are fair game.
The walnut would have to be dry (not recently oiled) and I'd use conversion varnish as a sealer under color. The open pores should be filled first; I use a water-based microballoon sealer which can be bought at Stew-Mac or LMI.
Once the CV sealer is cured, it should be sanded flat and dull with #320. Solid color can be applied right over the CV, then additional coats of CV should be applied on top, flatted and buffed.
If the new color is a pearlescent or metallic, I use a polyester primer (Evercoat) over the sanded CV. I then wet sand the polyester primer with #600 before I apply color. Any scratches greater than #600 will show under pearls and metallics.
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
That would be great, yes.Dave Scantland wrote:I'll be starting this project in the next day or so. Would it be helpful for peeps if I posted step-by-step photos of the Scratch-X/Zymol procedure from start to finish? (Maybe such a thing already exists here, but I haven't found it.)
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Bump! I just was perusing this thread,as I recently bought a 4004c,and found the recommendation for Watco's Danish oil. Does it matter much if the Watco's used is the CLEAR or the NATURAL varity? I found the natural in stock at my local Ace,but i would think i might want "clear"---?
- jingle_jangle
- RRF Moderator
- Posts: 22679
- Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 6:00 am
- Contact:
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
They are equivalent. Neither has any colorant. Perfect for your 4004.
I have some updates for this thread, for conversion varnish finishes and the newer UV-cured polyester finish, based upon some research that I've been doing the last 18 months. Stay tuned.
I have some updates for this thread, for conversion varnish finishes and the newer UV-cured polyester finish, based upon some research that I've been doing the last 18 months. Stay tuned.
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Excellent,thanks for "clearing" that up!jingle_jangle wrote:They are equivalent. Neither has any colorant. Perfect for your 4004.
I have some updates for this thread, for conversion varnish finishes and the newer UV-cured polyester finish, based upon some research that I've been doing the last 18 months. Stay tuned.
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Don't you mean, clearing that up, naturally?woodyng wrote:Excellent,thanks for "clearing" that up!
- paologregorio
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6371
- Joined: Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:56 pm
- Contact:
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Yay! Can't wait to hear the info on CV finishes generally, and the UV-cured in particular!jingle_jangle wrote:They are equivalent. Neither has any colorant. Perfect for your 4004.
I have some updates for this thread, for conversion varnish finishes and the newer UV-cured polyester finish, based upon some research that I've been doing the last 18 months. Stay tuned.
The `82 Ruby you refinished remains a stunner.
There is no reason to ever be bored.
...why yes, I suppose I do have a double bound guitar fetish...
"Uh, I like the double bounds. . . ."
...why yes, I suppose I do have a double bound guitar fetish...
"Uh, I like the double bounds. . . ."
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Tuned, and glad to know that you're on the problem.jingle_jangle wrote: I have some updates for this thread, for conversion varnish finishes and the newer UV-cured polyester finish, based upon some research that I've been doing the last 18 months. Stay tuned.