Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Here is a quick little fingerboard project for John Bulles. He is fixing up a bass and needs an S style fingerboard to complete the look. It is nearly done and here is how I did it.

I started with a bubinga blank that I cut several weeks ago. I like to let them sit for a while to make sure they are stable and will remain flat. Because of the thickness of a RIC fingerboard, bad things can happen if the bubinga takes a twist. I don't know how RIC does it but I age mine for a while. The board has been planed to thickness and the sides trued up.



Then I draw the shape of the board and mark off the frets. That old fingerboard in the background has become my master gauge.




Next, I cut the fret slots. The fret saw starts the cut.




But it would take too long and wear my arm out so I switch to the Japanese saw. It cuts the same kerf as my fret saw but a lot faster and has a better handle to boot.



When it is finished it looks like this.

Now I cut the taper on the bandsaw.



It is starting to look like a fingerboard. The bandsaw leaves the sides a bit rough and not perfectly straight. The next stop is at the jointer.



The board comes out with smooth, straight sides and is very close to its finished size.

Next, I prepare the inlays. John wants a vintage style board with 8 dots. I start by locating the center of the dotted frets.



Once that is done, I drill the holes with a 1/4" forstner bit. The bit makes smooth round holes with flat bottoms. Perfect for dot inlays.



Then the dots are installed. A drop of wood glue into the hole goes first.



Then the dot is pressed in allowing some glue to squirt past.



Wipe off the excess glue.




Wouldn't you know it. I was one dot short. Fortunately there are some on order so I should be able to finish it in a few days.




Once the last dot is installed I will cut the radius and fret it.

dot's great work!

very nice!

You have a table saw- why not cut the taper using that? Just make a wedge shaped piece which you clamp to the fence while sawing.

You need to age the Bubinga blanks more like 6 months as we do, otherwise, as you say, there's a good chance that you'll have a warped neck.

Your Bubinga looks more like Jarra, btw.

Fascinating! Very nice so far!

Man, all that shop talk just get me so excited.... I wish I was capable of doing some of that stuff.... The closest I'll get to that is paying someone to do it and watching. The watching will probably cost extra.

Thanks for the tips John. Yes, the table saw makes more sense. I made just such a wedge but I have not used it yet. I should put dates on my blanks so I know how long they have aged.

Wow, thanks for the photos and thread...Ted, the work looks incredible...can hardly wait for the board...this will be the best part of my (please God...do NOT let this "T" off Mr. Hall)...."4002S" project bass.

John, are you making a 4002S bass? That's a project that I'd like to do sometime also. As much as I love the look of checkered binding, that's just what it does to my forearm.

Dane, I have had this little idea for about fifteen years, of a 4002 crossbred with a 4001s, I want the contours of the "s" but the pickup placement and pickguard of the 4002,I had a little idea of running some checkerboard binding along the center of the body wings. I am using a salvaged 4001 neck, I hope that alleviates any concerns that J.H. may have about this project, I certainly do not wish to offend, bend or break any laws, rules or incur the wrath (apologies to Jeff Rath) of RIC or anyone else or any forum members....I came across a trashed 84 4001 and thought about my little fantasy bass....and so it begins....

OOPS, I think I mean 1981 4001, sorry guys!

What a cool idea. Wouldn't you know it, I'm completely broke right as far as starting new project goes. Oh well, at least I have my latest project to keep me company.....

What is the fifth control on that Dane?