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MA 4000 Series Bridge Modification
Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2003 12:21 pm
by jps
I did Mark Arnquist's modification to my 4001 bridge yesterday. Wow, what a difference it makes, but I do have a question for those who have done it. While turning the intonation screws counterclockwise to flatten the intonation the screw has a tendency to screw away from the saddle instead of the saddle piece moving back. Then I have to push on the screw to get the whole thing to move where I want it to. Is there a way to prevent this from happening? Also, I can't always get the screw to fully seat back in the bridge saddle, any suggestions?
One part of his mod is to file out the rounded corners in the slots that the saddle pieces ride in, in order to provide greater range of travel of the saddle pieces. To keep the part looking original what I did instead was round off the corners of the tangs that the screws go through which are hidden away under the saddle. This works well and is very easy to do as the saddle pieces are made from a fairly soft metal.
Thanks for any help on the moving screws.
Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2003 6:18 pm
by aceonbass
To avoid the problem you're expieriencing I take the mod a step further. I use the next size up screw and tap the saddles for it. The screw is longer and sticks out the back long enough to accept a "jam nut". This solves the problem you're having but also neccesitates another mod which will be visible. In order for the jam nuts to clear the tailpiece, round holes ,similar the the ones the strings go through at the rear of the tailpiece, need to be trilled into the tailpiece at the edge of the bridge channel. I chamfor all of the areas I cut in the tailpiece and in the case of one of my tailpieces, have it re-chromed. It looks like it was made this way at this point. I also drill and tap the bridge for the next size up height adjusting screw and use longer ones that go all the way through the tailpiece and seat into capscrews sunk into the body .I've done this to all of my Ricky bass bridges and now it's a fully modern and adjustable unit with no drawbacks.
Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2003 12:23 am
by paul_yan
Jeffrey,
The simplest way to stop the screws from backing out is to leave the saddles in the " closer to the treble pickup, sharp in intonation" positions when installing the bridge piece and then turn the screws clockwise to get the correct intonation and leave them there. This process may take a day or two as you only want to pull them back a little at a time to avoid them being flat by over-turning.
This may seem laughable. The motto is: "Only turn clockwise." If a saddle is over-turned and become flat intonation-wise, take the bridge piece out and start over with the saddle in question.
When a new set of strings that are lighter in gauge are put on, you'll have to do it all over again as lighter strings need shorter string lengths to intonate properly. With heavier new set of strings, just turn clockwise more to pull the saddles back.
Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2003 2:05 am
by jps
Dane,
Thanks for the ideas but that is more than I am willing to do. As it is the bridge is easier to adjust and I am waiting on a newly manufactured replacement bridge that will solve all these problems.
Paul,
As part of Mark's modification the bridge saddle is turned around 180 degrees so the screws are facing towards the neck. In this orientation to go flat the screws are turned counterclockwise; I suppose I could start with the saddle pieces fully flatted and then adjust going sharp, bassically the reverse of your suggestion.
By the way Paul, your "girls" are beautiful!
Thanks to both of you for the responses, they are very much appreciated.
Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2003 2:46 am
by paul_yan
Ha thank you Jeffrey!
I love my girls. They look and sing so fine.
Yes, put my suggestion in 'reverse mode' and it should work for you.
Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2003 7:35 am
by big_g
I tried this basic idea the other day, all I did was to turn the saddle around on the G 180 degrees. The screw was left facing the same way the others were facing. I just have to turn it the opposite way now. This was all it took for 45-105 string guage to get the G string just right, mine didn't stick when the screw was adjusted either.
Great idea, I should have known, some guitar player friends have had to to something like this with the tune-o-matic type bridges. Thanks guys!