Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I won a 360/6 jg recently on ebay. It came with a vintage tail piece and toasters. I also have a 360/12 with high gains. I like the sound of both but the volume on the 6 is very low and lacks punch that you would expect form a Ric. I tested the pick ups and I am reading 6.0 and 6.1 for the vintage. I get 10.2 and 12.0 on the high gains. I am considering changing swapping pickups on the two, but want to get your feedback on the those ohm readings.

The toasters should be 7.4k ohms +/- and the high gains should be 11k ohms +/-.

This will vary from pickup to pickup and depending on the quality of your meter.

And Yes the high gains have more punch ... in other words they live up to their name.

Those readings sound about right to me. IIRC, the high-gains I've tested ran around 11-13 kW[/size]. I have a set of reissue toasters, but I can't remember what the reading was for them ... but I think that they were much hotter than 6 kW[/size].

All of my toasters are around 6K as well. I'd switch 'um if I were you. You'll love the toaster sound in the 12.

Cole

Thanks. I did change them and I like the high gains in the 6 but not quite getting the sparkle in the 12, maybe I should change the neck with the bridge and see what that does. I put the hottest in the neck on both swaps, which is how they were in the original guitars them came out of. I am really thinking of selling the toasters and getting HG and vintage covers. Thanks for the info.

Looks like I need new foam. The toaster pick ups work well sitting up above the foam which looks squashed. I have four on order. Its sounding much better and I think I still need to lower the stings a little more too. I need to really play some more and with the band to make up my mind to sell. If I do I will post them here. Should the screws thread through the pickups or just go though the hole?

They just go through the holes in the metal but don't thread into it.

All the pickups have holes that are small enough that the screws thread into them and woundn,t let me adjust when they get to a certain point.

Mine seam to thread into the pick ups and wont adjust at a certain point.

Sounds like you have the version intended for the neck position on the basses. Are the middle holes threaded?

Sure sounds like the bass versions - you can always drill out the center threaded holes in the bottom plates. Or sell them to bass players. Other than the holes being threaded, they are identical to guitar pups.

I have two high-gain covers and one complete high-gain guitar pickup that I converted to take a toaster cover sitting here. A 1/8" drill bit shaft will pass through both types of covers as well as the base plate for the converted pickup with just a little bit of room to spare (no binding at all). A 9/64" bit (the next one up in my set) is too big to go through. The center (mounting) screw holes on both the covers and the base plate are just holes, with no threads. I assume my screws are normal-sized and haven't been messed with, but this is about the third Ric six or twelve-string that I have removed and reinstalled the pickups from for one reason or another and I can't ever remember any of the screws binding on the pups.

I think that Eric's problem could be a slight misalignment of the pickup's aluminum baseplate hole with the hole in the chromed pickup cover. This has the effect of reducing the effective diameter of the center hole on each side to where the mounting screws will thread into the hole (instead of passing through cleanly)and then hang up when the pan head bottoms out.

This can be easily fixed by running an 1/8" drill bit through both center holes while the pickup is assembled. This enlarges the hole in the softer aluminum base plate without damaging the hole in the chromed cover.

I think this last post is correct. I have high gains with the same problem.