Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Hi guys,
I have a '75 4001. When i removed the TRC to adjust the truss rods I noticed that the spacer block is brass and the adjusting nuts have actually dug into the metal rather than push solidly against it.
2 questions:

Were the spacers originally made from brass? Seems like kind of soft material to me.

Will the current truss rod spacers (part# 06119) fit the old style rods?

I tried to take a photo but my digital camera sucks at close up detail. Also, the rod ends do not look bent.

Thanks,
Kirk

Welcome Kirk!

The spacer bar was originally made from aluminum (aluminium for our UK members!). The current spacer is different and will not work.

Here are a couple of pics of a NOS set of rods with the original style aluminum spacer.

The spacer is supposed to be aluminum which is softer than brass. I usually add small steel washers between the nuts and the soft spacer to keep them from digging in. The folded back part of the rod that contacts the opposite side has a slant cut and digs in slightly. Sometimes if there is a lot of force on them they will cause the block to tilt, forcing the nuts into the headstock. The rods can be removed and any damage can be cut off, then rethreaded with a 10/32 die nut. I'm not sure if the current block is interchangeable.

Thanks for the info.
Any idea how to get a spacer for a 4001? This ones pretty messed up. I'm afraid to try to adjust it for fear of messing up the rod end.
I'm guessing since mine is brass that someone had it made. It does not look like the one in the above photo. It's thinner and not rounded on the back side.
Thanks again!

I believe that the reason the spacer is aluminum is so the nuts dig in and don't move on their own.

Kirk, It would be best to fabricate one and custom fit it to the route in your bass. Oh, I almost forgot, welcome to the forum.

The spacer/tie block is aluminum because it is easy to fabricate and won't gall without washers.

If the nuts have dug in, it's a sure indication that someone adjusted the truss rods in the wrong manner--by trying to move the neck into adjustment using the nuts and rod tension alone.

I'll bet that the aluminum original was trashed, and the brass was substituted by a well-meaning non-Rick tech.

"The current spacer is different and will not work."

It will and it does...

I got my current v63 real cheap because the guy thought the neck was permanently damaged. A new spacer was made, and some other minor adjustments done, and I believe it is the best set up 4001v63 bass guitar in history.

It will be displayed at MARF, where hopefully folks will also witness the unveiling of a 4003DCM.

"I'll bet that the aluminum original was trashed, and the brass was substituted by a well-meaning non-Rick tech."

That's what I was thinking.

Ilan, have you actually replaced an old spacer with a new one? That would certainly be the easiest route.
Otherwise, I'll have to take some measurement and find a machine shop.

Thanks again for all the help.

"Ilan, have you actually replaced an old spacer with a new one? That would certainly be the easiest route.
Otherwise, I'll have to take some measurement and find a machine shop."

No, I just bought the bass like that. I have adjusted the rods and everything works just fine. At first I wanted to have a machinist make me a correct spacer block, but since it works, I was in no rush to do it. If I had a correct spacer available I'd probably replace the one currently on the bass.

No need for a machinist...although you would need a drill press and hacksaw or bandsaw and a file or sander.

Refer to the truss rod photo above in this thread.

You need a piece of scrap aluminum 1/4" thick by at least 1/2" wide. Drill two 3/16" holes through the 1/2" face of the piece, 7/16" apart.

Now cut the piece to 1" long and round two of the corners (3/16" radius, if you want to be accurate). Grind or sand down the height from .500 or whatever, to .400", and try the fit. The radiused edges go against the wall of the neck pocket.

If you have a bandsaw, drill press, and sander, it's a ten minute or less task. If you use a hack saw, hand drill, and file, it's more like an hour.

I make new blocks for all of my basses (since the original ones are always butchered and the rods are curled), but instead of making them 1/4" x 1/2", I make them 3/4" x 1/2". Keeps them from curling the rod ends...

Thanks everyone.
I'm sure I can make one or get it made now. Especially with Jingle_jangles measurements.

""The current spacer is different and will not work."

It will and it does..."

That's useful to know!