CONVERSION VARNISH AND NITRO DIFFERENCES
Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:56 am
Here's a question from Gene Schillacci:
"Paul,
This is probably one question for a thread of its own, but I'd like to know more about the differences between conversion varnish (or whatever modern Rickenbackers are finished with) and the Nitrocellulose finishes of old and reissue Fenders and Gibsons. The Rick finish is much thicker, but on my 1993 4001v63, which has seen a lot of playing time, the finish is still nearly perfect. Only a few places around the frets has it chipped off or worn noticeably. The chrome on the horseshoe is really worn, but the finish just keeps going and going!"
So, here's the new thread!
Well, yeah, Gene, it's really apples and oranges.
Most briefly, nitrocellulose and its compatriots enamels and acrylic lacquers, dry by solvent evaporation. Conversion varnish and its compatriots polyester lacquer and epoxy enamel, all cure by the reaction known as catalyzation.
That's the main distinction between these types of finishes.
Years and even centuries ago, the finishes available were true lacquers (from insects and tree sap), which was the preferred finish in the Far East for precious objects made of wood and paper, shellacs, and varnishes, for objects like violins and other stringed instruments.
Modern chemistry gives us the catalyzing type of finish, which includes conversion varnishes. This type of finish came about in answer to a need for a durable finish which allowed a greater film thickness along with accelerated hardening times to facilitate production.
Nitrocellulose--which RIC used until sometime in 1959--was the finish of choice for electric stringed instrument makers back then. It remains so because of a common misperception that in all cases, a thin finish is a better finish. This is certainly true of acoustic guitars, which operate on the principle of enclosing and controlling a volume of air within a case of wood. The less finish, the better from the standpoint of vibration transmission at least.
The less air enclosed by an electric guitar body, the less important the thickness of finish becomes. I do not hold with there being a huge sonic difference between a solid-bodied guitar or bass finished with .002" of nitro, vs. the same instrument finished with .010" of polyester layered upon itself for ease of gloss and durability. There will be a difference, depending upon how sensitive the pickups are, as they remain the primary determinant of the sound of a solid-bodied instrument, in my experience.
In the older days, before self-catalyzing coatings came onto the finishing scene, air-dried lacquers were the easiest way to protect wood, with a finish that dried dust-free in a relatively short time compared to enamels and alkyd varnishes and offered sup[erior protection to shellacs, which have poor water and chemical resistance.
But although nitro is easy to spray and sets up dust-free in a short time, its "hang time" (the time an instrument must hang, undisturbed, before buffing and final assembly and setup) is rather long and can extend to weeks depending on film thickness and environmental factors.
Enter CV, which catalyzes through the entire film thickness, instead of outside-in, and allows the buildup of thicker films with a good deal more resilience than nitro, and better protection to boot. No doubt it was quicker cycle times, the ability to color-sand and buff to a glasslike surface within a couple of days, and a fraction of the old hang-times, that caused RIC to switch from nitro to CV back almost 50 years ago.
"Paul,
This is probably one question for a thread of its own, but I'd like to know more about the differences between conversion varnish (or whatever modern Rickenbackers are finished with) and the Nitrocellulose finishes of old and reissue Fenders and Gibsons. The Rick finish is much thicker, but on my 1993 4001v63, which has seen a lot of playing time, the finish is still nearly perfect. Only a few places around the frets has it chipped off or worn noticeably. The chrome on the horseshoe is really worn, but the finish just keeps going and going!"
So, here's the new thread!
Well, yeah, Gene, it's really apples and oranges.
Most briefly, nitrocellulose and its compatriots enamels and acrylic lacquers, dry by solvent evaporation. Conversion varnish and its compatriots polyester lacquer and epoxy enamel, all cure by the reaction known as catalyzation.
That's the main distinction between these types of finishes.
Years and even centuries ago, the finishes available were true lacquers (from insects and tree sap), which was the preferred finish in the Far East for precious objects made of wood and paper, shellacs, and varnishes, for objects like violins and other stringed instruments.
Modern chemistry gives us the catalyzing type of finish, which includes conversion varnishes. This type of finish came about in answer to a need for a durable finish which allowed a greater film thickness along with accelerated hardening times to facilitate production.
Nitrocellulose--which RIC used until sometime in 1959--was the finish of choice for electric stringed instrument makers back then. It remains so because of a common misperception that in all cases, a thin finish is a better finish. This is certainly true of acoustic guitars, which operate on the principle of enclosing and controlling a volume of air within a case of wood. The less finish, the better from the standpoint of vibration transmission at least.
The less air enclosed by an electric guitar body, the less important the thickness of finish becomes. I do not hold with there being a huge sonic difference between a solid-bodied guitar or bass finished with .002" of nitro, vs. the same instrument finished with .010" of polyester layered upon itself for ease of gloss and durability. There will be a difference, depending upon how sensitive the pickups are, as they remain the primary determinant of the sound of a solid-bodied instrument, in my experience.
In the older days, before self-catalyzing coatings came onto the finishing scene, air-dried lacquers were the easiest way to protect wood, with a finish that dried dust-free in a relatively short time compared to enamels and alkyd varnishes and offered sup[erior protection to shellacs, which have poor water and chemical resistance.
But although nitro is easy to spray and sets up dust-free in a short time, its "hang time" (the time an instrument must hang, undisturbed, before buffing and final assembly and setup) is rather long and can extend to weeks depending on film thickness and environmental factors.
Enter CV, which catalyzes through the entire film thickness, instead of outside-in, and allows the buildup of thicker films with a good deal more resilience than nitro, and better protection to boot. No doubt it was quicker cycle times, the ability to color-sand and buff to a glasslike surface within a couple of days, and a fraction of the old hang-times, that caused RIC to switch from nitro to CV back almost 50 years ago.