Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I got a new (to me) 360 yesterday and there is more relief in the neck that I'd like---I prefer necks just about dead flat anyway, and from what I've read it sounds like that's the intended configuration for Ricks.

I'm no stranger to truss rod adjustments but this is my first time with the double rod system. I've read the owners' manual section on it, but I'm just wondering if there are any special tricks or tips, or things to be wary of, relating to the Rick dual rod set-up. I'm sure I can get it dialed in eventually, but I'd like to do it right the first time if I can.

One of the biggest problems people have with adjusting Rick T-rods is getting the right tool to do the work. It must be a thin walled deep set 1/4 inch socket to work properly otherwise problems can result in possible fretboard separation or cracking the neck. With guitar tuned to pitch, pull back lightly on the peghead and tighten each rod till the neck is flat. Do this with caution so as not to over tighten and break a rod at the adjustment nut.

The only other thing to watch out for is if your guitar was manufactured prior to 1985. If it's 1985 or later, you can adjust the rods normally - like any other guitar. If it is a 1984 or earlier model, there is a special procedure for adjusting the rods to avoid inadvertently popping the fretboard off.

No problems there; it's a 2006 model.

Thanks for the input.

You may wish to check the online owner's manual again as well. It was significantly revised just today.

Dale,

I ran into the problem of not have a "thin walled" socket wrench when I adjusted my trust rods. I got it to work but I definitely felt like the walls of the socket were too thick. Where can you get a "thin walled" socket wrench?

Jim

Well, that was a fortuitously-timed revision!

Everything went smoothly. Only a very minor adjustment did the trick---I was just careful to adjust the rods evenly. (I'm not seeing any sign of twist or anything like that.) The guitar plays almost by thought now.

Also, I had no problem making the adjustment with my standard hardware-store 1/4" nut driver. I've seen bigger clunkier ones that probably would not have fit, but the one I had worked fine. It was plenty deep to get a good grip on the nuts.

Nice job with the on line owner's manual Mr. H.
It's a big help for those late night "I think I'll adjust all my basses set ups" after a couple of Mountain Dews.

There are only so many commercials I can watch on late night cable television, then my basses start running.

Jim, try Snap-on-Tools or even Sears. I made mine by taking a regular deepset socket and grinding the outside wall down on a disc sander.

Or, Jim, you could go to your hardware store and get a screwdriver with replaceable tips. The tipholder on these is a narrow 1/4" 6 point socket, and can be deep enough to do the job.

Or you can order a specific tool from the Rickenbacker boutique.

The Sears Craftsman 1/4" nut driver works fine.

Here

Xcelite makes a long shaft nutdriver - The L8. They can be ordered from online tool catalogs for about $6.50.

Thanks for the suggestions on the thin walled nut drivers.

Jim

John,
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What is the procedure for pre-85's?