Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I bought my Ric 4003 new in 2001 and a few things always bugged me but I nnever acted upon it.

the G string is very close to the edge of the fret on the 1st through 3rd frets.
is this normal?
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x292/ricnbacker/musical%20stuff/?action=view&current=musicalinstruments010.jpg

the mute pad doesnt move although the screws tighten.

I also want a person to adjust it properly but cannot find anyone near me who seems qualified. this is the only Ric I will probaly ever have and do not want to take it apart myself in fear of ruining my "prized possesion"

I know some of you guys on here do some major recontructing and are former Ric workers.

I have no problem shipping my bass to the right qualified experienced person and paying ( obviously) for the service of a basic tune up and what not

thanks

Seems like you need a new nut to adjust the G-String ( I like those not only on bass )position. With a new nut you can cut your personal string position.

With the mute pad: sometimes the metal base plate of the mute already is blocked from the wood beneath, shifting it forth and back might find the position where it drops further into the designed cavity. I had the same problem on my '74 4001.

Realistically, neither of these issues is something that merits sending the bass and paying shipping both ways; any experienced luthier could make a new nut and free up the mutes. Stay away from chain store luthiers, and let your fingers do the walking. Call them up one by one and see what sort of vibe you get. If it's a good match, you'll know it!

Could be also that the mute pad has come unstuck from the metal underneath it which can happen with these easily as they are so wide now, easy fix.
Don't be afraid of the bass, if you take it apart you'll learn a lot about it.
Nuts come unstuck very easily and it's easy to put a new one in. Actually if I were you I would unstick it and push it to over a little bit, that would solve the problem as long as it didn't stick out over the edge, even then you could easily trim it.

Does the G string slip over the edge as you play?

I would leave the strings and nut the way they are ... it looks like it functions well ...

as per the mute they often get stuck ... you take it apart unstick it and put it back together ... all you need it a screw driver ...

Paul, I have went into the few stores that I have within a 100 mile radius and found 1 guy who did the first set up on it and showed me so I was able to do it myself after that. a Luthier he is not.
I have only had to adjust the truss rods once after that.

the rest of the people I have run into I would not leave my SX P bass copy with.....

Bob,

The only time It slips off is if I play a A or a B on that string and that is rare. I have also adapted to the fact so I am aware if I come near that note to hit is strong to keep it in place.

I guess you are right, I shouldnt be afraid of it. Taking all the strings off to see inside the cavity where the mute pad is should be a big deal and shouldnt affect the neck for 1/2 hours right?

thanks

Jeff, you were actually who I was hoping would respond to this.
if you feel it is ok like that and it doesnt affect my playing then I trust that opinion.
I will check out the mute pad, I think I can find a screw driver laying around...

if I have trouble whats you address?

LOL


thanks

Chris, remove the strings, lift out the bridge assy., remove the 5 philips head screws (3 under the bridge assy, 2 between the bridge and string anchor area), lift out the tailpiece, then look at the mute setup. There is a wire soldered to the back of the mute pad metal backer, so be aware it is there. It is a lot easier than this all sounds, and if you put it back together as you took it apart, no problems.

Don't overtighten the 3 screws in the bridge assy recess, as it will tend to cause taillift if overtightened. Many of us put a couple/three flat washers (just to fill the gap between metal and wood) between the tailpiece and the maple where those three screws go to better couple the tailpiece to the wood and so the tailpiece can't lift at the tail due to tightening of those three screws.

Here's a simple fix for your nut issue. Loosen the strings and pop off the nut. Slide it over till the strings are centered properly. File any excess material off the E side of the nut till it sits flush with the fingerboard and glue it back on. You just saved yourself at least thirty or fourty bucks.

I said that about 8 posts ago
(a newer gentler Bob)

I was thinking about it and If I moved the nut over I would then have a problem with the E string. so I do not think moving the nut is the right choice at this point. it plays just fine as it is I was just curious if your strings appeared to be that close to the edge.
A new nut with the G string slot cut slightly over would probably be the best move as Pete suggested. Does Ric sell just nuts I would like to keep it original....

The nut on my '67 4005WB has the E string way over near the edge of the fingerboard; someday I may take care of it and have a new nut made, but then again I have had this bass since 1973, so...

The thing is most people pull down when they play not push up so I would rather have an E string near the edge than a G. I had a 93 4003 with the G string close to the edge and it used to slip off, that drove me nuts, I was always conscious of it when I played.