Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Bought the pots from Brian (Thanks!), and now that I've extracted the original wiring harness, I have run into questions.

There are more wires than I expected coming out of the pickups, but maybe not... What to do with the outer wire sheilding and the red, black, clear and blue ( I think)?

Ditto that there's a shielding on the output jack - should that go into the grouding assembly?

My "guess" now is that I need to connect everything but the red and black together on the pickup leads, then use the red as my hot lead into the switch, and use the black for grounding. On the output jack wire, I am guessing that the inner wire should be the hot lead out of the 2nd bank of pots, and the outer wire goes to all the other ground wires...

Any input, suggestions, warnings, and/or photographs would be helpful. Thanks!

I have concentrics on my 4004 . I do not use the switch . Dont need it . I used the wiring diagram from a Fender stack knob bass to good effect.

OK, I can deal with the switch doing nothing...but I'd like it to work. The thing confusing me now is what wires to use coming out of the pickup harnesses and what to do with the outer shielding of the wire to the output jack.

Here's a diagram from Joey's site.......

http://www.joeysbassnotes.com/TipsPics/ ... Switch.pdf

.....and from RIC's site here's the HB-1 diagram.....

http://www.rickenbacker.com/pdfs/19521-HB1%20Wiring.pdf

the easiest way to put the cocentric pots in is to bypass the toggle

jwr2 wrote:the easiest way to put the cocentric pots in is to bypass the toggle

What fun would that be?

I HAVE to have the switch. I have everything adjusted so all I have to do is......down for fast, middle for regular tempos, and up for the ballady stuff! I find I need more clarity when up tempo. The round sound just "muds" up. I want it to fill the room on the slow stuff tho.

Again...my question...do I just combine the ends from the PU leadbut for the black and red? Or just leave them hanging covered in shrink wrap)?

I'm guessing (again) that the ouside wire wrap on the output jack wire goes to ground...

Brian - thanks for diagram, it's what I want to do...

Sorry Ed......I'm a "hands-on" type and would need it in front of me figure my way through it. Also I generally need to take things apart to figure out how they go together. I'm sure someone smarter than I will pipe up with some info for ya'. Good Luck!

OK, looking at a remnant clipping it looks like the PU leads are as follows:

Red combines with the outer wire sheath to make the hot lead
black and clear are wired together
Blue is used as the ground

I'd like a confirmation from someone before I continue...

Red is the hot lead
Black and clear are wired together. You would use these leads for coil tapping (optional).
Blue is used as the ground and is tied to the sheilding.

The 4004 I just worked on had one of the hb1 pickups with the red and blue leads reversed ...

I had to switch the leads on the bridge HB that was originally in my 650C due to a magnet being installed with reverse polarity from the factory. If both pickups were selected, the sound would get thin and nasaly. I found the problem with a Schatten Magnet Polarity Tester. After contacting RIC via email they confirmed that the pickup was built wrong and had me switch the wires to compensate for the mis-build. That pickup now resides on a forum members 4004.

Link for polarity tester: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics ... ester.html

ken_j wrote:Red is the hot lead
Black and clear are wired together. You would use these leads for coil tapping (optional).
Blue is used as the ground and is tied to the sheilding.

Ed, Ken is right. Also if you think about it and what a shield does, you wouldn't want the shield tied to the hot (signal) lead. As to the shields from the pickups, output jack, bridge, and any others I don't think of right now, solder them all to the body of the pots and tie all pot bodies together with a wire also. Actually you are going to be wiring it exactly like a 4001/3 except the pots are on the same body and the switch is different in that the contacts look different.