Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I swear, every time I get the gumption to try to improve the intonation on one of my RIC guitars, within 3 minutes, I realize again why I need not even bother. It's hard enough to get the little wrench in the hole, with the strings in the way and all, but, when I do actually turn the screw, the saddles never move, just the head of the screw ! I think the next improvement RIC should make is a bridge that preserves the tone we love, but actually does something !!

My bridge saddle screws seem to work just great, even though I've rarely had to adjust them. I had to perform a minor adjustment on one of my Ricks about a week and a half ago. Are you using the allen key that came with the guitar, or another one? The case candy wrench has an extra long handle to facilitate adjustment, unlike the typical DIY/hardware store allen key.

If I try to shorten the string by loosening the screw, the screw heads come out, instead of the spring uncompressing. I assume this is because the saddle is pressed up against the adjacent saddles, and can't move.

Steve,

I took my bridge completely apart on my 360v64 just because I was experiencing the same issue as you. I took some emery cloth to the sides of the saddles and removed some small burrs and in the process made them completely smooth. When I reinstalled them I put some lithium grease between the saddles and voila my problem went away. Perhaps you should try that.

I know that this bridge design is a bit frustrating but in the end by being very careful that the bridge did not rock forward as I tightened my strings, I managed to get my intonation absolutely perfect.

I hope by sharing my experience, that it is somewhat helpful to you.

You'll need to push on the saddle to keep it moving while turning the screw. The springs, when present, aren't strong enough to move the saddle by themselves; they need a bit of help. I use a scrap of 1/8" plexiglas strip, 1/2" wide by about 4" long, with a small crescent taken out of one corner. You don't need to be that specialized, though--a small screwdriver or even a needle nosed pliers with masking tape over the jaw tips--work just fine.

OK, thanks guys. I will try the push it forward method, but as I said, RIC could easily ship a more operational bridge.

I just developed a method for doing this. Loosen the strings, put them to the sides, and take the bridge off of the guitar. Starting at one end, loosen each screw until the saddle-screw-spring assembly starts flopping around loose. Uncompress the spring all the way until the saddle position provides the shortest string length. Position the end back towards the hole, and re-tighten the screw until the screw is back in place. Do this for each saddle, then re-insert bridge, and put strings back on. This way, your adjustments are to tighten each screw, as opposed to loosen. String by string, stretch them out if they are new, then tighten the bridge screws until you nail the intonation of each string. Then, never change the type of strings you are using, and never do this again ! I'm actually proud to have figured this out. Just take your time, and be careful !

I should add to unwind each spring. Now I have a couple loose springs in my bridge

I agree with Steve to start the intonation process with each string too short (octave note sharp). That way, you're lengthening the string by tightening the saddle adjustment screw to bring the octave note down to proper pitch. It really isn't necessary to remove the bridge when adjusting the saddles forward, though. Just move the string for the saddle you want to adjust to the side, then help the saddle forward with your finger as you loosen the adjustment screw.

Kris is right in that you don't need to take off the bridge, but it is a little less risky, in that you can jiggle with it while it isn't on the guitar. I tried to take the loose springs out, to stretch them out, but the cursed screw stopped turning, just as I nearly haddle the saddle off. It got so hard to turn that I abandoned the effort. Now my bridge is riddled with two loose springs. I almost want to clip them out of there with a wire cutter.

Has anyone just removed the springs from their bridge ? With mine & Kris's intonation method, they don't seem to be necessary, and may be a source of wierd noises, since they can end up loose in there.

As I mention in passing in my above post, ("The springs, when present"), it's common to remove them.

I see no need for the springs, but I have no way to remove them. Do they by chance contribute to the Rickenbacker tone ?

Yes, there is less spring in the sound.

Well my brand new 360 JG is now out of commission. I was trying to take a spring off to stretch it out, but it was rather difficult to get the screw out of the saddle. I got it off OK, but now it won't go back on - as if the saddle hole is stripped. The screw looks fine, but I think the screw hole in the saddle was not machined well. My brother is a machinist - can he repair this ? If not, I'm really at a loss as to what to do. I'd like to send the bridge to RIC and have them put a new saddle and spring in there, but I doubt they even received my warranty card yet.