Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I have a Rick Light Show in my shop and the lights don't work. Does anyone know where I can get a schematic for this guitar? Is it hopeless to fix (i.e. because of unobtainable components)?

Thanks,
Todd

yup...it's totally hopeless and will never work. That said, you can sell it to me!
I'll take that burden off your shoulders no problem!

nah, check the Rickenbacker forum- http://www.rickenbacker.com/forum
I remember seeing some discussion awhile back about it, also search the archives of this forum, there's been several similar discussions..mostly about the bulbs and such.

Cheers,
-Collin

I'm no expert but...........

Does the transformer work? Is it putting out 18v?
Is the transformer wired to the same pins on the din as the guitar?

I'd check these options first as I've had these problems on my first 2 lightshows

Otherwise............ PW should be able to help? ................... Paging Paul W?

Yeah, I've got two in my shop. There are no schematics currently available; they were apparently lost during a factory move some years ago.

I am (slowly) putting together a schematic for this guitar's circuitry, and had made some headway a couple of months ago. Hope to get back to it this weekend or next.

Graham has described the first step in the trouble-shooting process--the converter box should be putting out about 18V into the DIN connector. Only two pins of the 5-pin connector are used, and usually it's #1 and #5 when the plug is viewed end-on. Open up the guitar and check that those two pins of the socket have the wires coming from them, unbroken between socket and PC board.

This does sound suspiciously like a power problem, so that's the first thing I'd check. If this checks out, grab your VOM and start tracing. I've been replacing transistors. The main ones to check are the (oddly-named!) 4001s, which are NPN silicon types (old tech, to say the least). These cross-ref to an NTE154. I have not fired up the circuits on mine yet, as I'm in the middle of replacing these.

I do not have voltages or a complete diagram yet, unfortunately.

Thank you all for your help. It will be a while until this makes it to my bench but now I have a better idea how to procede. I'll keep you posted on my progress.
Thanks again,
Todd

Hi Paul - just checking to see if there's any progress.

I've got it out and opened up; give me a few days and we should have it squared away, KH.

jingle_jangle wrote:I've got it out and opened up; give me a few days and we should have it squared away, KH.

(Kenny hops up out of his chair and does a happy dance around the room)

That's odd. In both of mine(type 2) the main transistors were TIP29's.
Another thing is to make sure all of the bulbs are correct.
Mine had #53 bulbs. These came from Napa Auto and were the 12v small
globe type.
I colored them with translucent paint from my neighborhood hobby shop.

Not surprising...these transistors (I'm told...) are used like switches, and there seem to be a variety of them that work OK. I'm just getting into this stuff now, and not being an electronics guru, I'm feeling my way through with the patience and encouragement of my good customers. And learning all the time, too.

The bulbs in both the examples I've got are #52s, I think...they are not globes, but oval bayonet types. They're at the office and I'm here at home.

Re-opening this topic, as it now has become pertinent.

My best luck so far is with pre-colored 1445 #53 bulbs. Problem is I can't find pre-colored blue ones...

1445s are 1.87 watt, 3 1/2-sized (.440") bayonet based automotive bulbs, nominally 14.4V.

53s are same, but 1.7 watt. I doubt if anyone would notice the difference.

Bulb dye: Kenny and I have just discussed this on the phone, but I'll mention it for general knowledge: available at craft stores like Michael's, as stained glass dye in individual bottles, or in stained glass craft kits.