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4002 Pick Guard

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 1:08 pm
by rickaddict
Does anybody know what the 4002 pick guard is made of? It's heavier, more rigid, and more brittle than any other pick guard I've seen. I'm guessing that one or more of its 5 layers is some sort of electrical shielding material.

8)

Re: 4002 Pick Guard

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 3:00 pm
by doctorwho
IIRC, the multilayer plastic of that type was called Lamicoid (sp?) ... it isn't acrylic (like standard pick guards), but (again IIRC) an 'alloy' of a couple of different polymers.

Re: 4002 Pick Guard

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 4:37 pm
by teeder
and more brittle
That doesn't sound good, Jeff! We didn't have an accident, did we? :shock:

Re: 4002 Pick Guard

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 4:59 pm
by jingle_jangle
It's neither acrylic like Rick guards usually are, nor is it celluloid or butyrate like the stuff StewMac sells.

It does seem to be a thermoset, like Bakelite. It was a bear to polish pick scratches out of, I can tell you.

http://www.roemerind.com/index.php?c=lamicoid

UPDATE:

I just spoke to JH; he says these were all micro-finished ABS.

Here's my theory: The guard on Jeff's bass is a replacement, made by a sign shop from Lamicoid. When I got it from Jeff to polish, I expected an easy task--my buffer will do an average guard in less than ten minutes. Jeff's 4002 guard, however, took about 15 minutes per square inch, and these were only pick scratches. The previous owner was a very heavy picker to even be able to scratch that stuff! I'd say he wore out the previous guard, right down to the second--white--layer, and had a sign shop make a replacement up. It was thicker and much harder than I expected!

Re: 4002 Pick Guard

Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 2:15 pm
by rickaddict
Well thanks so much for the input, guys. I'm not a plastics whiz, but could both JH and Gary be correct? When I go to the above link and read a description of Lamicoid, this paragraph seems spot on for my pick guard:
Lamicoid / Phenolic is a hard, brittle material that is abrasion, heat, and chemical resistant. It is also an excellent electrical insulator. Because Lamicoid / Phenolic is extremely brittle, special precautions must be taken during the engraving process.
Mine has a lot of chipping on its backside where the holes were drilled for the knobs and switch which tells me how brittle it is.

I appreciate the theory, Paul and I'll take a closer look next time I'm around another 4002, but I think its original. When I disassembled this bass it was filthy and didn't seem as though any screws had ever been turned or anything ever replaced on the body of the bass. Some goon had removed a tuner to do an (unnecessary) "repair" on it and wrecked more than he repaired. But the body didn't look like it was ever touched. I've seen, held and played at least 2 other 4002's and from what I remember their pick guards were the same as mine; thick, hard, 5-ply with a tapered edge. All holes and wear marks on mine line up perfectly and the thing comes down on the bass like a bank vault door.

By the way...THANKS again for the fantastic buff job on my pick guard, Paul. I think the previous owner of my 4002 used a quarter for a pick!

The bass is coming along well, btw. It should be finished this weekend and hopefully I'll be able to post pics soon after.

8)

Re: 4002 Pick Guard

Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 2:53 pm
by teeder
I can't wait to see it!

Re: 4002 Pick Guard

Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 3:16 pm
by doctorwho
The use of proper tools is critical when working with such plastics. I recall cutting and beveling many, many badge-sized pieces of two-layer Lamicoid when I worked at the plastics warehouse ages ago. IIRC, the beveling process, using a table router (? correct name?), took patience because one could not feed the material too fast lest it chip and create an uneven bevel edge.

Re: 4002 Pick Guard

Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 4:01 pm
by jingle_jangle
This is true, not only of Lamicoid, but of any pickguard material, even RIC's unusual [use of] acrylic. The problem area is that razor edge at the very bottom when you're cutting the bevel. Slow feed is essential. I double-stick tape my guards to their MDF patterns, cut the shape first with a ball-bearing flush cut bit, then cut the bevel with a ball-bearing bevel bit; as long as the edge is held down with double-stick tape, it will resist chipping.

This method takes a few minutes per guard to set up, but it's worth it in quality.