Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Hi. I want to change strings from rounds to flats of the same guage. Do you think I will need to do any truss rod adjustments? Also on the subject of strings, does anyone know how far past the machine head I should cut the strings? I cut them way short last time! Any helpful advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hi there,

I usually cut my strings about 3-4 inches past each tuner post. Then I make a 90 degree bend about 1/2 an inch from the new end of the string to fit in the hole in the middle of the post. I use light guage strings so I can fit more windings around the post than thicker guage strings.

Tension is the key factor here, so try to find out from the manufacturer what tension each string is at pitch, and see if the flats match. D'addario makes it easy by printing the tension at pitch on the back of the package.

StoneRose wrote:...on the subject of strings, does anyone know how far past the machine head I should cut the strings? I cut them way short last time! Any helpful advice would be greatly appreciated.

It depends on which tuners are on your Rick.

On my open backed Schaller equipped Ricks (4003) I usually cut 'em around 3" past the post. On my Schaller M4 equipped Ricks (4002, some 2000 series, 4003 S/5, 4003 S/8, 4004 etc.) I cut them longer...as much as 5-6 inches past the post on the D string to keep the break angle over the nut steep enough so the string won't rattle.

Thanks for the replies. The flats I found for my 3000 are NOS Rickenbacker 3/4 bass strings.The original box is gone and the strings are in the original paper sleeves but with no tension figures. Tryed to contact Ric with no joy. The strings coming off are Rotosound Rounds (I think).

rickaddict wrote:On my open backed Schaller equipped Ricks (4003) I usually cut 'em around 3" past the post. On my Schaller M4 equipped Ricks (4002, some 2000 series, 4003 S/5, 4003 S/8, 4004 etc.) I cut them longer...as much as 5-6 inches past the post on the D string to keep the break angle over the nut steep enough so the string won't rattle.

+1

StoneRose wrote:Thanks for the replies. The flats I found for my 3000 are NOS Rickenbacker 3/4 bass strings.The original box is gone and the strings are in the original paper sleeves but with no tension figures. Tryed to contact Ric with no joy. The strings coming off are Rotosound Rounds (I think).

Well Tim...(Hey, are you the guy I sent the tuner gear to?)...the Rick flats will be lower tension than the Rotos. Will the bass need a truss adjustment? It depends on how the neck was with the Rotos. If the neck had a lot of relief with the Rotos, it might be nice and straight with the RIC flats.

The Rick flats (actually Maximas) that you have are a low tension string, as Jeff said. You are going to love the sound. I have them on my 4003 with a RIHS and toaster and it is a sweet sounding bass. John Hall has said the TI Jazz Flats are the closest to what the Maximas were, but now someone has started making the strings again and call them Optimas. You might try finding the tension specs of those strings, if that is really important, but I would just string up the bass, and if there ends up being a backbow, then adjust the rods by letting off an eighth of a turn at a time until the neck is straight again. Very easy to do.

Wow guys thanks very much for the replies, very helpful. I've never done neck adjustments on my Ricks before. Does it require a special tool?

johnallg wrote:I would just string up the bass, and if there ends up being a backbow, then adjust the rods by letting off an eighth of a turn at a time until the neck is straight again. Very easy to do.

His bass would have the old truss rod system, John (its a 3000). I've never tried to let some tension off the old truss rods/ straighten out a back bow by just letting the nuts out a little at a time. Will this work?

Usually when I need to adjust the old truss rods (its a front bow, and) I loosen the nuts, pull the neck back into position and then re-tighten the nuts.

StoneRose wrote:Wow guys thanks very much for the replies, very helpful. I've never done neck adjustments on my Ricks before. Does it require a special tool?

This is the tool that RIC sells to adjust the truss rods:

http://www.rickenbacker.com/cart.asp?vi ... ccessories

I had one. I threw it away. All you need is a thin-walled 1/4 inch socket on a nut driver. I prefer a 6-sided socket rather than the 12-sided sockets. I have a 4" extension between the socket and the driver.

See old truss rod adjustment tips on Joey Vasco's website:

http://joeysbassnotes.com/

Don't use a ratchet or other lever. The nuts only need to be hand tight.

RIC changed their truss rod system in 1984. I think you said your bass is a 3000, and from what I understand all of those were made before 1984. The new rods can be adjusted by simply turning the nut one way or the other, the old rods can't.

Thanks Jeff. Yeah the 3000 is a '76 so it has the old rods. Gonna have a go at the weekend. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again to everyone for your helpfull advice.

Tim,
If you can't find a suitable tool locally you can get one from here: http://www.rickysounds.co.uk/Accessories.html . It isn't cheap but it is exactly the right tool. Good luck!

rickaddict wrote:

johnallg wrote:I would just string up the bass, and if there ends up being a backbow, then adjust the rods by letting off an eighth of a turn at a time until the neck is straight again. Very easy to do.

His bass would have the old truss rod system, John (its a 3000). I've never tried to let some tension off the old truss rods/ straighten out a back bow by just letting the nuts out a little at a time. Will this work?

Usually when I need to adjust the old truss rods (its a front bow, and) I loosen the nuts, pull the neck back into position and then re-tighten the nuts.

I missed that it was a 3000. I don't know about the old rods and loosening - so far I'm still trying to go more tightened! Still have a slight bow to deal with - I need metal spacer material to shim the slots per John Fay.

Just to let you know the flats are now fitted and no neck adjustment was required. I also dropped in a new mute pad while I was at it. My 3000 plays like a dream, apart from the fact that my E string seems to have much less sustain (and a muddy tone) compared to the rest of the strings. Anyone have any ideas how to solve this or is it just a trademark of the flats?