Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Hi Everybody!

I have a 1979 4001 MG that I want to install the VIntage Tone Circuit in. I went to the RIC Boutique and was unsure of what I needed. I had heard that the push-pull pot was for sale there, complete with a wiring diagram explaining how to wire it in, but I could not find one in "electronics". I did find "POTENTIOMETER 500K W/DPDT SWITCH" and a "POTENTIOMETER 330K, AUDIO TAPE", but nothing indicating a kit or instructions. I had heard that the "POTENTIOMETER 330K" with a "DPDT SWITCH" was what I needed, so I am un-sure if the "POTENTIOMETER 500K W/DPDT SWITCH" is what I need, or will work.

Also, Since the .0047 cap takes out the bass part of the sound output from the Bridge Pickup, is there a cap that could be wired in a similar fashion on the neck pickup with another push-pull DPDT tone pot/switch that would take out the treble from that pickup when it is engaged? I am trying to get as many different sounds from the 4001 I can without actually changing the "stock" pickups of the 4001.

Thanks!

Yes, the 500K w/DPDT and the .0047uF cap are what you need for the vintage tone circuit. (And about four inches of wire.)

You can take the treble out of the neck pickup by turning the tone control down! If you want a different frequency range removed, you could also add another DPDT pot and a different value cap, but it's probably not worth it since the tone control is variable anyway.

You want the "POTENTIOMETER 500K W/DPDT SWITCH" part 07346. You will replace the tone pot for the bridge treble pickup. Pay attention to what tab you take off the .047uF cap so you can then mount up the 500k pot/switch and reattach it to the same tab on the new pot, also bending the other two tabs to the body of the pot to solder them there. As for the switch, you will need two short insulated wires and run them from the switch to both sides of the .0047uF cap. Refer to this:


As for the neck pup, just use the tone control to roll of the treble.

HA! John, you type faster than I do!! Also, welcome to the RRF!

johnallg wrote:HA! John, you type faster than I do!! Also, welcome to the RRF!

Thanks! You were slower because you posted a nice pic that explains perfectly how to do it .

Nice to see someone else believes in parallel wiring unused switch and pot poles too . For anyone who doesn't get that bit - when you have a DPDT switch and only need a single switching function, connect both sides of the switch in parallel as per John's drawing. This increases reliability and reduces switching noise because it would require a poor contact in BOTH switch halves at the same time to cause trouble, which is fairly unlikely. Given that it takes just a few more seconds to do, it's always worth it. Even with a pot it tends to reduce noise a bit because it prevents a momentary glitch in the rotor contact opening the circuit entirely. Yes, it's "unnecessary" in the sense that while the contacts are in perfect condition the extra connection doesn't do anything, but electronic components don't always stay that way in practice.

Gents...
Does the "Official" Ric bypass pot look something like this?


....and should I buy one of these....?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/WD-500K-Push-Pul ... dZViewItem
(I'm in Australia so its easier than getting one from Ric)

That looks very similar to the three I've bought from RIC. Not saying it is the same one, but sure looks it.

Regular pushpull pots work fine in the 300 series guitars, but the basses have a much shallower area to house the electronics. A normal push pull pot may be too tall, so before you wire that puppy in there, make sure it will fit. The 500k push pull pots from RIC are a little shorter than some of the more readily available ones, Also, the actual switching mechanism may work differently than the one RIC sells, and had a problem with one I had around for a mod I did in a different make guitar.YMMV, and good luck.

The pot pictured has a split shaft. The RIC pot has a solid shaft. RIC knobs have a set screw and will work better with a solid shaft. Also the one from RIC is smaller than some that I have seen.

I bought the entire harness from a US RIC dealer and installed it in a 79 4001 MG. I had to Dremel out some wood in the cavity to make the new larger device fit. Good luck with your mod, you'll enjoy it.

A bit of friendly advice, if you must partake in the herb, do it after the Dremel has been locked away. You'll thank me later.

ken_j wrote:The pot pictured has a split shaft. The RIC pot has a solid shaft. RIC knobs have a set screw and will work better with a solid shaft.

If you use a split-shaft pot with a set-screw knob you MUST pack the slot in the shaft with something or the screw will crush the two halves together and at the very least the knob won't sit or turn straight - at worst it will snap off half the shaft.

(You CAN get away with setting it so the screw presses directly on the slot rather than on one of the halves, so it tends to spread the shaft rather than crushing it, but that most likely won't give the correct position for the marker dot.)

A piece of a pick of the right thickness cut to about 1/4" x 5/16" is perfect.

In this case I would just get the correct part from RIC so you don't have to worry about that or cut into the wood.

RIC has the pushpull pot, which is solid shaft and will fit, in stock, even though they are closed. For the price, it's cheaper than most pushpulls, and the switching will work just as diagramed. The boutique, however, no longer appears to offer the .0047 cap, so you'll have to get that somewhere else. Radio shack doesn't generally stock these, but can order you one no problem.

In addition to a piece of matchbook cover or pick, little brass sleevs are available through most part houses that slide over the split shaft, and therefore allow proper fitting if RIC or other set screw knobs.

Check out the "Recordings by RickResource members" section for a recording I just did of a 79 4001 MG with the push pull mod (and all new pu's and elecs).