Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I am considering purchasing a 1978 Rickenbacker from a friend of mine, but have little idea how to value it. The bass is in great condition, it has hardly been played since the 1980s. Some minor fret wear, minimal buckle rash & dings, one bridge screw missing, and the pickup cover is also missing. Otherwise, it is beautiful. I want to come to a fair price, but have little idea how to do it.

Can you all help?

Welcome Matt,

The color may play a part in value. A really nice FG, or Azureglo might fetch a slight premium. I'd guess around $1500-1750 if it's all original including the OHSC.

Andy has a fair estimate there. Late 70s 4001 basses have great necks and sound wonderful. You might want to short out the .0047uF cap in the bridge pickup circuit to give it a little more heft. An MG or JG would be a bit less, IMO. Also, being your friend and him knowing the purchaser (smooth sale, no shipping) he may cut you a better deal.

Oh, and I just saw that was your first post - Welcome!

Make sure that there are no upper neck cracks as a result of bad rod -strings adjustment !
Enjoy

Welcome, Matt! I agree with all that has already been said in the others posts. What finish is this 4001? Got any pictures?

The bass is a sunburst finish -- seems common on the basses I've seen pictures of on the web. Sorry, no pictures, though.

Thanks all, for your great responses!

You can get a pickup cover from any of the on-line (or local) Ric dealers. I paid $15 some months ago. Don't go for the one being offered on ebay for around $45 U.S.

And you might not want to bypass the cap...some of us like having the pickups sound different.

All good points brought up. I have to chime in that prior neck problems are not always an issue. My 75 had a separation of the fingerboard a couple of years after I bought it in the early 80's (probably from the tension of having Rotosound RW's on it) and it has never been an issue after I got it fixed - even after having Fender 9050 flats on it for years (VERY high tension strings). The neck was bowed a bit with those Fender flats, but the previous crack appears to be stronger than the wood itself now. It was fixed a quarter centrury ago...

As for the cap - it does castrate the bridge PU, I can't argue that, but to me it adds an extra tonal dimention since the bridge PU will sound very different from the neck. I have seen a couple examples of the bypassed cap, and to me it makes the 2 PU's sound virtually identical. If that's the sound you like, then great, but IMHO then a 4000 is the better bass for you. But of course finding a 4000 is not easy, nor cheap.

If you do get it, you'll also want to be careful of the strings you put on it. I'd recommend low tension just to be safe. Some people have put high tension strings on these era basses with no problems, but others have had problems. I've had high tension Fender flats and pyramids, because I didn't know they were high tension, at various times and my neck straightened out with no problems.

Oh yeah - my 4001 straightened out great after I took off the 9050's...but it just doesn't sound as good with RW's in my ear now. Plus I mainly play my 4004 now, so I am less enthused about the old 4001 now. But I must have a decent neck for that vintage, despite the old injury to it.