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Brand new 4003

Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 9:12 pm
by gshadoan
Hi All,
Just got a brand new (04/08) 4003 JG, and I love it (duh), but I tried to raise the bridge mute, and it will only raise high enough to get the A and D. Wont even touch the E and G. Anyone else have this problem. What should I do? I am not really going to send it away to Santa Ana for such a small imperfection, but I really would like the mute to work.

Re: Brand new 4003

Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 9:28 pm
by jps
This is quite common, all you need to do is take the mute assembly out and bend it to match the radius better. Watch out for the ground wire, though.

Re: Brand new 4003

Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 10:17 pm
by bassduke49
Also note that the pad is a little longer and wider than the gap it's supposed to push up through. Use a sharp knife, X-acto, or razor blade (careful) and trim the pad some so that it raises unimpeded. Obviously, you'll have to do this with the pad out of the tailpiece, which means removing the strings, removing the tailpiece . . . .

Re: Brand new 4003

Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 10:25 pm
by gshadoan
Thanks Guys. I was trying to avoid taking my bass apart :mrgreen:

Re: Brand new 4003

Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 10:56 pm
by jps
It's not that difficult to do.

Re: Brand new 4003

Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 6:12 pm
by jwr2
Sometimes the mute gets stuck ... the sticky glue adheres to the wood in the cavity ...

Greg ... you should convert it to a 5 stringer ...

Re: Brand new 4003

Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 1:15 am
by oler
Like jps said, it's not that hard. And while you have the tailpiece off, do the "washer-procedure" to prevent future tail lift: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthrea ... t=tutorial

Good luck!

Re: Brand new 4003

Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 10:13 am
by gshadoan
jwr2 wrote:Sometimes the mute gets stuck ... the sticky glue adheres to the wood in the cavity ...

Greg ... you should convert it to a 5 stringer ...
LOL No way, I have 3 of those, I gone to playing both these days, 4 and 5 stringers. If I was getting a new 5 stringer, it wouldn't be a RIC, for Obvious reasons.
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Re: Brand new 4003

Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 10:10 pm
by ricnbacker
oler wrote:Like jps said, it's not that hard. And while you have the tailpiece off, do the "washer-procedure" to prevent future tail lift: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthrea ... t=tutorial

Good luck!

Luckily I do not have Taillift on my 01 Ric.

That is an excellent set of pictures showing how its done.
How does putting the washers in the cavity reduce the taillift issue?

wouldnt it be better to have the rear screws a little closer to the rear edge? you know, where the string tension is greatest?

Re: Brand new 4003

Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 10:27 pm
by johnallg
Chris, when the three screws are tightened (overtightened?) with the rout they go into done too deep, it pulls the tailpiece down into the rout area. The ends lift up, but because of the wood rout shape/dimension and the lengths to the ends of the tailpiece and the string tension, the back end does most all the lifting.

Re: Brand new 4003

Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 8:23 pm
by ricnbacker
johnallg wrote:Chris, when the three screws are tightened (overtightened?) with the rout they go into done too deep, it pulls the tailpiece down into the rout area. The ends lift up, but because of the wood rout shape/dimension and the lengths to the ends of the tailpiece and the string tension, the back end does most all the lifting.

I understand, Thanks