Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

A long time ago I had some info (probably from big brother) as to the correct way to string a 360-12. Apparently, the strings are supposed to be wound in a certain direction in order (clockwise and counterclockwise) to decrease tension and string pull. Is there anything to this or is it just an old wives' tale?

Janglyman

wound like you would a 6-string.... just because there are 12 of them doesn't make any difference in my mind.

I do see this little gem:
http://mediawebsource.com/guitar/12-string-guitar.htm
But I say "hogwash". The trick with changing strings on any guitar is not to take all the strings off at one time.
If you replace after each removal (or some variation of that) you will keep tension on the neck and also wont have
this problem:...uh...I surely hope so. What the hell is THAT, Engrish?

Janglyman wrote:A long time ago I had some info (probably from big brother) as to the correct way to string a 360-12. Apparently, the strings are supposed to be wound in a certain direction in order (clockwise and counterclockwise) to decrease tension and string pull. Is there anything to this or is it just an old wives' tale?

Janglyman

The only thing I have heard to decrease tension is to tune it a half-step lower (E-flat etc.) and then use a capo on the first fret to play 'normally '... BTW I always take all the strings off, as it gives me a chance to give the guitar a thorough cleaning/polishing, including the tops of the pickups and the area under the tailpiece (usually hard to reach areas).

On the strings going to the tuners down in the headstock slots, wind them so that they start at the hole in the shaft (obviously) and then the extra wraps around the shaft stack up toward the outsides of the headstock, not toward its center. This will help keep the strings from hitting the truss rod cover where they cross its edges.

>>>The only thing I have heard to decrease tension is to tune it a half-step lower (E-flat etc.) and then use a capo on the first fret to play 'normally '

I do that with a 12-string Epiphone acoustic (sometimes capo on the 2nd fret). It's a nice way to go... easy on the fingers.

Thanks for the info. I have also heard that the octave string tuners should be turned counterclockwise with the main string tuners going clockwise on the lower 6 strings (7-12). The first 6 are light gauges so it apparently makes no diff. Any thoughts before the big R falls out and I change strings?

Janglyman

I Put a cloth under the tailpiece or a paper sleeve from the string envelope to protect the woodwork.Oh and a beer helps too.

Russ, I'm not sure I understand your query, but, on the bass side, the regular strings go in the regular tuners, and the octave strings end up in the slots. On the treble side, the G octave goes in the regular tuner while the low G goes in the slot. The B and E continue the X/Y pattern.

As far as clock/counter, just wind them up the regular way for all tuning machines. Strings will wrap over the top of slotted machines, while the regular tuners work just like the regular tuners on a 3+3 typical 6 string. Search here for some headstock photos and you'll see.

You can also search my posts here for the best order (imho) to remove and replace, so that you don't have to tuck one string under another. It works best with an R tailpiece.

The trapeze kind of wants you to do a pair at a time, which as you can see on the headstock, would require some trickiness on that end.

http://www.rickresource.com/phpBB3/view ... 3&t=385647

scotty wrote:I Put a cloth under the tailpiece or a paper sleeve from the string envelope to protect the woodwork.Oh and a beer helps too.

And just how do you get a beer under the tailpiece?!?

beatlefreak wrote:

scotty wrote:I Put a cloth under the tailpiece or a paper sleeve from the string envelope to protect the woodwork.Oh and a beer helps too.

And just how do you get a beer under the tailpiece?!?

You pour it, of course!

When I had my 360/12 I used masking tape on the underside of the R bridge to hold the strings in place with a cloth on the wood to prevent any scratching. I installed all strings with just enough tension to hold them in place with the capo before attempting to wind the strings on .

Once there was enough turns to hold the string , about 3 ,Id release the capo and increase the tension gradually across all strings in turn until pretty much in tune before completing final tuning.

Removing the strings I gradually slackened all strings in turn until there was no tension on the neck, put my capo on about half way up to hold the strings then clipped a string and removed the free end before moving on to the next .

J

beatlefreak wrote:

scotty wrote:I Put a cloth under the tailpiece or a paper sleeve from the string envelope to protect the woodwork.Oh and a beer helps too.

And just how do you get a beer under the tailpiece?!?

Shake it Kris then it goes flat! Everyone knows that.

carr wrote:When I had my 360/12 I used masking tape on the underside of the R bridge to hold the strings in place with a cloth on the wood to prevent any scratching. I installed all strings with just enough tension to hold them in place with the capo before attempting to wind the strings on.....

Yup, I do the same thing. Funny how the more you do it, the more peaceful and relaxing restringing a 12 becomes. Regards.....Goofyfoot.