Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I've noticed on quite a few Rickenbacker guitars a tendency for the bridge to buzz and rattle when the strings are struck. Is there a recommended fix for this or is it just an inherent quality of the bridge design?

Dan, Rattling is not inherent in the "classic" bridge design, but is in the roller bridge on the C58 and C64. Those bridges were used for authenticity.

In the non-roller type of classic bridge, the most common causes are badly-adjusted height screws, and loose saddles. The roller bridges have the same basic design (with rollers added, of course).

Once the height of the bridge is established during setup, care must be taken to ensure that the bridge is sitting level (front to back) and that each pair of height-adjusting Allen screws contacts the bridge base plate. Because the strings apply downward pressure on the entire bridge, it's possible for the bridge to stay in place without all four of the screws contacting the baseplate solidly and with equal force. I've set up more than one Rick guitar which had one of the four screws absent. So, once the height has been adjusted for both bass and treble sides, make sure that the two screws on each side meet resistance when gently turned with the Allen adjusting wrench. If either screw is loose, just snug it up enough to contact the plate. Too much tightening and you raise the bridge a smidge, and then the other screw needs tightening, which could again raise the bridge infinitesimally, and so on, etc.

These screws can vibrate out of adjustment. Over the years, both rubber "O" rings and short springs have been used in an attempt to minimize this, but the best solution I've found is to use a touch (with a toothpick) of red LocTite (Product # 271):

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products ... 8&plid=154

Too much of this, however, is NOT a good thing. Get the bridge set up exactly as you want it, and apply a small drop with a toothpick, making sure it flows into the threads.

The second cause of buzzing is loose saddles. The saddles are made of alloy sheet, and need to fit tightly against the bottom bridge stamping, so they do not rock. It's the rocking from side to side that causes buzzing. The most common fix for this is to cut a tiny (1/4" X 1/4" or so) piece of brass shim stock of an appropriate thickness to wedge under the saddle so it doesn't rock. Generally, the bridge (or at least the offending string) must be removed to accomplish this fix satisfactorily.

Brass shim stock can be bought from the K & S Engineering rack display at hobby and hardware stores and home centers.

Just curious, why would you pick Loctite 271 over one of the more removable types such as 242 or 222? I wouldn't think there would be that much stress that you'd really need a "permanent" type.

cjj wrote:Just curious, why would you pick Loctite 271 over one of the more removable types such as 242 or 222? I wouldn't think there would be that much stress that you's really need a "permanent" type.

Everyone has their preferences, and I've also used the blue and the green. The red, applied in tiny quantities, isn't really "permanent" (as it would be on a 1/2-13 bolt, where it would take a torch to get it to loosen up). I think it's the best general-purpose Loctite, and to my knowledge, when Loctite only existed in one form, it was this one.

I've also seen bridge buzzing coming from the intonation adjustment screws on Rickenbacker guitars. The saddles and bridge base have very tight tolerances. Many times, when loosening an intonation screw to move the saddle forward, the screw will back out of it's seating, and start vibrating when the guitar is played.

To eliminate this possibility, make sure to tighten the screws when setting intonation. In other words, start with the saddle too far forward (12th fret note sharp compared to the open string). Then tighten the adjustment screw until the fretted note is in tune with the open string. When moving the saddle forward, 'help' the saddle forward by pushing the saddle with your finger as you loosen the adjusting screw. This will keep the screw seated, and not allow it to back out.

Thanks for the quick replies, Paul and Kris. I'm familiar with the roller bridge buzzing sounds; I think this is due to unevenness of the adjustment screws, as you mentioned.