Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

The threads on my 4003 are stripped. I was wondering if I can cut off the the threaded end and re-thread it and cut an inch off the none threaded end so they are still the same length. These are the "hairpin" style truss rods. It seems like I read that this was okay, but I can't find it now...Thanks a lot.

Welcome, Mitch!

Yes, you can do what you described, that is the correct way to fix that issue.

Much thanks, I've discovered it's like pulling teeth trying to get correct info on Ricks! This is my first Rick, It's a wee bit rough, but everything works (except the truss rods). Again, Thank you very much.

You won't get any trouble with info on all things Rick here!

Welcome to the forum, Mitch. You can find out pretty much whatever you want about Ricks here.

Welcome Mitch! I recommend only cutting off enough to start clean threads, then cut the same amount off the other rod end. Great way to show up here!

jps wrote:You won't get any trouble with info on all things Rick here!

So I noticed, Great site with tons of usable info. The guys at Talkbass sent me your way. Being my first rick, I'm sure I'll be asking kinds of questions.

johnallg wrote:Welcome Mitch! I recommend only cutting off enough to start clean threads, then cut the same amount off the other rod end. Great way to show up here!

I'm not sure how the person before me did it, but there are no usable threads! Only about the first two or three, the rest are thrashed. I'm going to the machine shop at lunch and have them do exactly as you described. Thanks for the warm welcomes, I can already feel another rick in my future...I think I'm in trouble. At least I already have a great bass system.
PS. Since I'll be basically starting from scratch, do I adjust these like the Fenders I have ie: no tension, give half turn, wait a few hours check it and adjust up as needed?

Well, just got back from the machine shop. They say they can't repair the rods because when they cut off the threaded end all they are left with is the "flat sided" portions and those cannot be threaded. So where can I buy two rods for a 1981 4003?

Talk to Paul W., he makes rods. I am surprised you machine shop can't thread those; Rickenbacker has done so for decades.

Yup, just thread the flats, that is how RIC has done it. That is also why the threads are more fragile.

BTW, you adjust the truss nuts and neck by having the bass all together and strung, then loosening the nuts, moving the neck to where you want it to be, holding it there, and tightening the truss nuts just enough to hold the neck in position. The rods do NOT move the neck, but hold it where you move and keep it while the nuts are tightened. If you over tighten the nuts, it will crack loose the fretboard from the neck. Make sense?

johnallg wrote:Yup, just thread the flats, that is how RIC has done it. That is also why the threads are more fragile.

BTW, you adjust the truss nuts and neck by having the bass all together and strung, then loosening the nuts, moving the neck to where you want it to be, holding it there, and tightening the truss nuts just enough to hold the neck in position. The rods do NOT move the neck, but hold it where you move and keep it while the nuts are tightened. If you over tighten the nuts, it will crack loose the fretboard from the neck. Make sense?

Totally, sounds pretty simple. Thanks for all you guyziz patience...

Sending the truss rods to Paul in the morning. Thanks to everyone for your time and patience.

Mitch

I followed this thread because I just bought an old truss rod that doesn't fit my needs, and it sounds like it's a 4003 rod. I could use some education: the seller thought it was a guitar rod, but my 1966 330 truss rod has threads at both ends at the headstock, and nuts that tighten over both ends. The rod I got, however, has threads at one end of the U shape, and the other end is shorter, square, and without threads. Is this a 4003 rod, and different from other pre-1986 guitar truss rods?