Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass – Part 5 The Tuners

This week we are going to slow the pace a bit and focus on just a single piece of hardware – your tuners. This is not a very glamorous topic but every Rickenbacker bass has at least four tuners so let's have a look.

As far as I can tell there have been 7 distinct tuner types used on Rickenbacker basses over the years. If you know of any I have left out please post them here and where they fit in the order. I am omitting the guitar tuners used on the 4008 prototypes as they were not production instruments. The 4005/8 had similar tuners which are also ignored here because the model is so rare.

The earliest bass tuner type was a nickel-plated machine with a large key and a transverse-drilled patent head that is about 1/2” diameter. I believe they were reverse geared (the key was turned clockwise to increase string tension.) with a 20:1 ratio. I say reverse gear because they turn in the opposite direction of Fender tuners. Because of their large posts, these tuners are heavy and were quickly replaced by a lighter weight model.

Yes Graham, I stole this image from your website. You have some wonderful pictures up there by the way. Here is an early type with a transverse-drilled post. Note the larger post diameter.
Some time between 1960 and 61, Rickenbacker switched to their second tuner type, a nickel plated machine with a 3/8” slotted center-drilled patent head and the same 20:1 ratio reverse-gear key as the original machines. I don't know the source of these tuners. Schaller? Kluson? Some sets have grommets of metal or plastic and others have none at all. Subtle variations of this design were used all the way into the 80's. The later ones have black plastic shims to improve the fit against the wood on the back of the headstock. The early ones do not have a shim but require four shallow holes per tuner to be drilled in the headstock to allow for clearance of the ends of the U shaped key retainers. There may have been a forward-gear (counter clockwise) version of this tuner in the 70's. I recall having to turn the tuners counter clockwise on some 70's Rickenbackers but cannot find an example. If you have one, please let me know. Here is a 70's example with a black plastic shim and grommet.
Used primarily as an inventory back-up starting in the early 70's , Rickenbacker installed two styles of Grover box type tuners on their basses. These chrome plated machine heads had either flat or bent (wavy) keys that turned 5/32” slotted center-drilled posts. The wavy type are far more common. Both styles feature 18:1 turn ratios. Because of their relative scarcity, these tuners have become highly prized by collectors and can fetch upwards of $250 per set. Grover box tuners appear sporadically on Rickenbacker basses from about 1971 to 1986, possibly even earlier. They were apparently used whenever the factory did not have the standard tuners on hand. Grovers represent the third and fourth bass tuner types used by Rickenbacker.

Wavy Type Flat Type

The fifth tuner type is the Schaller M4. The M4 made its Rickenbacker debut in 1977 on the model 4002. They have since been used on the 4008, 4003S/8, 4003S/5, 4004C, 4004Cii, 4004LK, and the 4004L. These reliable tuners have sealed gear boxes, 9/32” center-drilled posts and 12:1 gear ratios and come in chrome, gold, and black finishes. Despite the 12:1 ratio they are just as precise as the standard tuners thanks to the smaller post diameter. In the mid 80's Rickenbacker replaced the standard nickel tuner with the sixth tuner type, a convertible chrome plated machine that can be used on either side of a 2x2 head arrangement. The reversible key can easily be configured for right or left hand applications. The new design also features a flat back plate that requires no shims or relief holes in the headstock. What's more, these tuners can be completely disassembled for cleaning and lubrication. They are made in Germany ( I believe by Schaller) and are extremely smooth and precise. Early on, the factory painted them black (partially) for black trim applications. The same tuner was produced later entirely in black by the manufacturer. The back plate of this model bears the Rickenbacker name. This tuner type remains the standard equipment on the4003 to this day.
The seventh tuner is a nickel plated version of the current chrome machines. The new nickel tuner was introduced with the 4001C64 because the nickel plating gives the C64 a more authentic vintage look. When new, the plating look a lot like chrome but will dull up nicely with use and age. As far as I know, these tuners were only available on the C64 and not installed on any other Rickenbacker bass model. Unfortunately, I don't have a picture of a C64 tuner. Please post one here if you can.


Tuner Care
Generally speaking, tuners are low maintenance items but it pays to check the screws and lubrication regulary. The standard type tuners have a large central screw that should be tight. Over time they can vibrate loose and fall out. The Schaller M4s have a small screw at the center of the key that should be checked for tightness occasionally. The threaded sleeve that secures the M4 through the headstock should be snug. On all tuner types, check the mounting screws. If any are chewed or rusted you can get replacements from your local hardware store. I use stainless steel screws whenever I have to replace one. Stainless won't rust and will always look good. You can even buff them up to look like chrome if you want. Older tuners may need to be disassembled and cleaned to remove any gummy grease and other crud that has collected around the gear and worm. Soak the parts in mineral spirits or naptha and scrub with an old toothbrush. Once the parts are clean, polish everything to your satisfaction. When you reassemble the pieces, use a Q-Tip to put a very tiny amount of petroleum jelly or grease (a white lithium will work nicely) on the worm gear and where the shaft turns in the tuner body. Older tuners a more difficult to lubricate. Try to force a little grease into the gaps inside the U shaped retaining clips. Turn the key to work it in. Put a small dab of lube under the big gear before you reassemble. Cleaning and lubing will make them look, work, and feel like new. By the way, never use anything containing silicones to lube your tuners. Schaller M4s don't really need much other than outside cleaning. They can be disassembled but it is seldom necessary as they are pretty well sealed and permanently lubed.




Fixing Grover Box Tuners
Giving the false impression of inferior manufacture, some Grovers will suddenly pop apart and spill their innards all over the floor. This happens because the four swaged pins that hold the box over the tuner gear can work loose over time. Fortunately, this is very easy to fix. All you need is a hammer, a punch that is a bit smaller than the pins, and sturdy work surface. Assemble the tuner making sure the key is on the correct side. By the way it is possible to convert a left side tuner to a right side tuner simply by changing the orientation of the key. Put something soft like a rag on the work surface under the tuner box to protect the chrome. The tuner body may also be secured in a vise if you are careful. Place the punch in the center of each of the pins and give it a firm smack with the hammer. This will spread the end of the pin and wedge it into the backing plate. It may take two or three tries to get it snug. Check the fit for wobbles and touch up as required.

This picture was staged for purposes of demonstration. The tuner should be secured with a free hand so it stays put as the punch is struck.

Good advice Ted, as the owner of 28 wavy grovers I can say that they are not as bad as some people say they are. If you're a touring pro that changes their rounds before every show they are probably not the best choice, that's probably why Geddy replaced his in the 70's.

Great info, Ted.

For the record, Grover Box Tuners were called Slimline tuners by Grover.

rickfan60 wrote:I don't know the source of these tuners. Schaller? Kluson?

Ted, it is my understanding that tuners for the basses generally used between 1963- mid 1968 were Kluson in origin, as were the 1974-ish and up to (?)....early 80's..?

I wonder if those M4s could be fitted onto a 4003? I really like the way they feel when I play iiipopes' 4002.

Here is my March 1974 4001. Reverse tuner.

cassius987 wrote:I wonder if those M4s could be fitted onto a 4003? I really like the way they feel when I play iiipopes' 4002.

Yes they can but it leaves the old screw holes out in the open.

leftybass wrote:

rickfan60 wrote:I don't know the source of these tuners. Schaller? Kluson?

Ted, it is my understanding that tuners for the basses generally used between 1963- mid 1968 were Kluson in origin, as were the 1974-ish and up to (?)....early 80's..?

That is what I am thinking too.

chrisdski wrote:Here is my March 1974 4001. Reverse tuner.

That is how the relief holes look under the tuner. I considered showing that but I did not have a picture in my archive. Thanks for showing that.

Mine had a black gasket between the tuner and the head in addition to the black trim. (Is this obvious/included on all/not worthy of mention? i.e. 'duh')

Yes, the black shim and grommet normally appear together.

I had the reverse tuners on my '73 and '75 basses and they drove me NUTS!

rickfan60 wrote:

cassius987 wrote:I wonder if those M4s could be fitted onto a 4003? I really like the way they feel when I play iiipopes' 4002.

Yes they can but it leaves the old screw holes out in the open.

That'd be just fine as long as I could refit the old tuners back on with no holes in sight.

Yes, that works.