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Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass - Part 9

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 1:22 am
by rickfan60
Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 9 – The Binding


On solid body instruments binding is just trim and only there for aesthetics. But on many hollow body instruments binding plays a functional role in protecting the fragile edge joints. Typically made of nitrocellulose, binding is somewhat soft and acts like a shock absorbing bumper. Minor hits to the body edge are distributed over wider area reducing the chance of a glue joint popping apart.

The first 4000s have plain, unadorned bodies with rounded or beveled edges. Some time in the early 60's (1961?) Rickenbacker introduced the deluxe trim option that includes triangular fret markers and checkerboard binding.

The first standard application of binding on a 4000 series bass came with the 4001 in 1961. There was at least one deluxe trimmed 4000 built but it was either experimental or a custom one-off and not a production instrument.

Before we talk about application and the binding variations found on Rickenbackers, let's take a look at the binding itself. It starts out as sheets of nitrocellulose of a given thickness that is cut into long ribbons of standard widths. Width increments are typically in 1/8” and thicknesses is incremented in 0.020 inches. The current standard white binding on a Rickenbacker is 1/4” wide and 0.060” thick.

Examples Of Binding Black 0.020, White 0.060, And Checkerboard
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The binding thicknesses used on Rickenbacker basses are 0.020, 0.040, and 0.060. Rickenbacker white and checker binding are .060. and black binding is 0.040 or 0.020.


A Word About Nitrocellulose Binding

To a guitar builder, nitrocellulose binding is wonderful stuff. It cuts and shapes easily and can be spiced and blended. Repairs are simple because it can be turned into a paste with acetone. Dents, holes and splits are easily and undetectably filled. It is far and away the favorite material for guitar binding and repair. The down side is that nitrocellulose is highly combustible and in the post 9-11 world is classified as an explosive by the DOT. When shipped, permits and special handling are required that add to the cost. Many luthier supply houses like Stewart MacDonald will not ship cellulose binding anymore opting instead for plastic. A few small producers will still ship the good stuff.

When working with binding, care must be taken to regularly clean up any dust or small fragments as heat can cause them to suddenly ignite. It is quite astonishing really. The stuff goes off like gun powder into a puff of white smoke. Poof!


How Binding Is Applied

Binding normally fits into an L shaped channel cut into the edge of the wood. When multiple layers are used as with checkerboard binding, a step cut is made. The outer ply sits on the bottom step and the inner ply (checkerboard) sits one step up. The step cut provides a more solid base for the outer ply and allows for more surface area for adhesion. Binding is quite flexible but tight corners require some skill to pull off correctly. One of the binding guys at RIC showed me how to do it using a small piece of steel. He rubbed the steel over the binding using the wood as a guide. Friction from the steel gently heated the binding causing it to briefly soften and take the shape of the body. He could flawlessly shape the binding around the upper horn in about a minute. It takes me a bit longer...

Here is a test piece I made a few years ago on a piece of scrap oak. The step cut is evident on the edge.
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There are two basic ways to attach binding. Most builders use some kind of laminate adhesive. This works but can soften the binding too much and cause pitting and other deformations as it sets. Instead Rickenbacker uses a paste made from binding scraps and acetone. The paste bonds quickly and does not soften the binding any more than required. It also fills any inadvertent voids making the fit more or less seamless.



Early Rickenbacker Checkerboard Binding

Shellex in Germany made the original checkerboard binding but quality issues a while back prompted RIC to consider other sources. The current source is proprietary and sells checkerboard binding exclusively to RIC. The black and white checks in the binding measure just under 1/16” on all examples I have seen regardless of age.

The early 60's basses have an inner ply of standard 0.060 checkerboard binding covered by an 0.080 white ply. The outer layer is probably really two 0.040 plies as a single 0.080 ply would be difficult to bend around the wave tips. At some point in the late 60's or early 70's the outer binding was changed to a single ply of 0.060 white probably for this reason.

An Example Of Early Checkerboard Binding
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Transition To Single Ply Binding

The labor required to do a proper checkerboard installation is substantially greater than doing a single ply. To simplify construction, in 1973 checkerboard binding was replaced on most deluxe Rickenbacker models with a single ply of white binding. Later in the 70's black binding was offered with Maplego and White finishes. Though probably not standard, black binding sometimes appears with other colors like Walnut and Autumnglo.

Typical 0.060 Binding
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Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass - Part 9

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 1:24 am
by rickfan60
The 4002

As with most other aspects, the 4002 is special here too. Most people see the checkerboard and notice the black outer ply but there is a little more to it. The black ply is actually a laminate of 0.040 black with 0.020 white.

This same laminate binding also appears on some 4001s and 4003s presumably as Rickenbacker used it up. Every now an then an example of this turns up. This one was recently sold by Olivia's and once belonged to a forumite.
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When used on the 4002 the laminate looks especially nice along side the checkerboard binding. Here is the binding on a '79 4002.
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The 4002 has black neck binding and a ply of 0.020 black around the headstock.
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The Shadow

Made for a Guitar Center event back in 1986 the Shadow features 0.060 checkerboard binding with a black outer ply at 0.040. The neck binding is 0.020 black with white side markers.

Shadow Binding
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Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass - Part 9

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 1:26 am
by rickfan60
4004LK

The Lemmy Kilmister signature model has checkerboard bound wings with a standard white outer ply.




Neck Binding

Deluxe models have bound fingerboards. Early examples have 0.040” binding that is formed up around the fret ends. Sometime in the late 60's or early 70's the neck binding was thinned out to 0.020” making it nearly invisible when viewed from the front. This may have been done to strengthen the necks if just a little. The full width inlays are deep and take a lot of strength (wood) from the fingerboard. When the inlay type changed to the rounded triangles in '73 the binding went back to 0.040” complete with fret nubs and has remained to the present.

Neck Binding From A 2007 4003
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Side Markers

Rickenbacker side markers are made of nitrocellulose rods that are pushed into holes drilled in the fingerboard then trimmed and sanded flush.

Side Marker Material
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Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass - Part 9

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 7:09 am
by Tarrbot
Always wonderful, Ted.

Thanks for the time you put in to these. :)

Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass - Part 9

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 9:23 am
by cjj
I know there was a time when black trim (binding/pickguard) was an option when ordering an instrument. Do we know what years this option was available? Also, was checkerboard binding ever an option when ordering?

Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass - Part 9

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 9:35 am
by rickfan60
cjj wrote:I know there was a time when black trim (binding/pickguard) was an option when ordering an instrument. Do we know what years this option was available? Also, was checkerboard binding ever an option when ordering?
Black trim started in 1985 and did indeed include black binding. BT ended around 2004 I believe.

As far as a formal post '73 checkerboard option goes, I don't think so. Otherwise we would see examples of popping up occasionally. There are probably some one-offs that have it but I don't believe it was offered as an option.

Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass - Part 9

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 10:08 am
by jingle_jangle
On the Rickenbacker BT basses (all mid-1980s) that I've worked on, the black binding has been ABS, not celluloid.

Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass - Part 9

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 10:15 am
by rickfan60
On the Rickenbacker BT basses (all mid-1980s) that I've worked on, the black binding has been ABS, not celluloid.


I've wondered about that Paul. Some black binding is different to my eye and I suspected it was not the same material. On my Shadow it looks gray - almost like it started off as white and was stained black.

Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass - Part 9

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 10:22 am
by jingle_jangle
You can always tell by the smell, Ted. Black ABS, when sanded, has a smell not unlike stale cigarette tobacco, whereas cellulose nitrate smells spicy, similar to menthol.

Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass - Part 9

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 7:34 pm
by rickfan60
jingle_jangle wrote:You can always tell by the smell, Ted. Black ABS, when sanded, has a smell not unlike stale cigarette tobacco, whereas cellulose nitrate smells spicy, similar to menthol.

Apparently it has all been ABS for quite some time. JH says at least 30 years. The explosive nature being cited as the reason.

Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass - Part 9

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 8:04 pm
by gareth
rickfan60 wrote: There are two basic ways to attach binding. Most builders use some kind of laminate adhesive. This works but can soften the binding too much and cause pitting and other deformations as it sets. Instead Rickenbacker uses a paste made from binding scraps and acetone. The paste bonds quickly and does not soften the binding any more than required. It also fills any inadvertent voids making the fit more or less seamless.
From my experience, I actually believe that they use an adhesive capable of gluing the Titanic together, that can only be removed by the application of military grade explosives.

Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass - Part 9

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 8:21 pm
by jps
gareth wrote:
rickfan60 wrote: There are two basic ways to attach binding. Most builders use some kind of laminate adhesive. This works but can soften the binding too much and cause pitting and other deformations as it sets. Instead Rickenbacker uses a paste made from binding scraps and acetone. The paste bonds quickly and does not soften the binding any more than required. It also fills any inadvertent voids making the fit more or less seamless.
From my experience, I actually believe that they use an adhesive capable of gluing the Titanic together, that can only be removed by the application of military grade explosives.
Still trying to get yours off? :lol:

Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass - Part 9

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 8:26 pm
by ric330
Great post Ted
I really enjoyed reading the all the details.

Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass - Part 9

Posted: Tue May 05, 2009 11:45 pm
by rickfan60
Thanks for the kind words both publicly and privately everyone. I really appreciate it.

As it turns out, RIC has been using ABS binding for at least 30 years. This change was made to avoid the very real dangers of working with celluloid binding I presented above. The material itself is only of passing importance to my original post. The styles of binding and the application method are my primary focus. JH was kind enough to correct me on the material itself so I am passing it on here. Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this series. There are only 3 installments remaining - I promise. :)

Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass - Part 9

Posted: Tue May 05, 2009 11:48 pm
by cassius987
Keep it up--these are fantastic!