Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I recently replaced my 360/12 RIC 6-saddle bridge with a 12-saddle straight from the factory. But I noticed the strings are all fanned out evenly rather than in pairs like it used to be. Is this normal? I noticed the factory 12-saddle doesn't have any grooves in it like the 6-saddle did. Is there a way to get the strings back into pairs while keeping the 12-saddle? Help......?

David

You (or somebody who is qualified) need to file grooves in each saddle for each string. The width and depth of the grooves as well as the spacing between them are important as you want each string to fit nicely - not rattling (or buzzing) around, and not binding (catching) on the sides or bottom. (Note that the grooves are not in the center of each saddle, which addresses your pair spacing question.) The short answer is to find an experienced Rickenbacker luthier/technician who has done it, and to provide him (or her) with your preferred strings. Otherwise you need to get some very fine needle files from StewMac, find the recommended spacing dimensions (it exists somewhere on the web but I can't find it quickly) and file the grooves. I don't have the courage to do it myself, so I go to Paul W (Jingle-Jangle) in San Francisco. Good luck!

Mark Arnquist installed mine and there are step-by step captioned photos in this folder. He repositions the bridge as needed to try to keep the saddles more centered in the bridge channel. I guess some luthiers do and some don't. Final neck heel to bridge base plate is about 144 mm. Intonation on this guitar was pretty bad when I shipped it out and it came back wonderful. Interestingly, the intonation on my other twelve seems just fine with the original six-saddle bridge, so go figure..... One of the nicest things for those of us who remove the bridge cover for easier plam-muting is that all the sharp edges on the 12-saddle have been smoothed out. It's much nicer on your hand that way.
(step #12 isn't pictured. He removed the pickups so that the jig would fit and for some other work on the guitar)

http://webpages.charter.net/tbradshaw/M ... %20bridge/

Thank you very much Clement and Todd. That is perfect information. It looks and sounds like a huge ordeal to do it right. Hopefully I'll be able to find a local person in the SoCal area. Thanks for the input guys.

David

You live in California? Our own Paul W. could fix you right up!

Who is this Paul and where can I find him? I'm in the San Berdoo area or Inland Empire as they call it. Also on a side note. Is there a way to get a vintage pickguard for the 370? The new ones are too short as their 24 frets extend. I believe the McGuinn model is like the stock 370/12 prior 1968. So do you know how I might go about getting a white pickguard for the 370/12RM? I talked to a dude in Japan who has one and he had it specially made. Thanks Ric Brothers.

David

Byrds1967 wrote:Who is this Paul and where can I find him? I'm in the San Berdoo area

David

Paul is our resident jingle-jangle dood, he lives in Maroon County up north of your way!

Byrds1967 wrote:Is there a way to get a vintage pickguard for the 370? The new ones are too short as their 24 frets extend

David

Call Tony at Pickguardian, he can fix you right up.

Er, hi....

Paul, he might not understand what your getting at...

David, this is our own master luthier. He lives in San Diego, and knows the in's and out's of every Rickenbacker made. If I lived in So Cal, I'd call him up to do all my Ric work.

JakeK wrote:Paul, he might not understand what your getting at...

David, this is our own master luthier. He lives in San Diego, and knows the in's and out's of every Rickenbacker made. If I lived in So Cal, I'd call him up to do all my Ric work.

San Diego? Oy!!!

Just a little north of there...

That's quite a commute. I hope he owns a hybrid.