Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Lots of pictures to explore the details

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... SS:US:1123

FAKER!!!

Do I get a gold star?

Yes, if I am the teacher you get a gold star.

Yup, fake as can be...

admin wrote:Yes, if I am the teacher you get a gold star.

OH JOY!!!

Looks like the old Univox copy I used to have in the late '70s...

I didn't know any of the fakers had dual truss rods. Good thing it's easy to spot as a fake, just the same.

Gold stars all around on this exam. Most definitely a faker.

The case also is a deal giveaway--at least one brand of Japanese copies came with this "thermometer" type of case. Ricks never did, although I suppose that it's possible to find a real Rick in the case that once protected a Japanese counterfeit.

Here's what I saw for the faker- tuners were wrong, should say Grover on them. Pics of the fake and my ex 1981 4001. Can anyone comment on the width of the walnut strip between a faker and a Ric?

Rout between the control cavity and bass pickup is wrong. Should be drilled out with a forstner bit, not a smooth cavity. Also, the fretboard should be a redish brown, the fakers tend to be darker. Look for 2 truss rods, thought they both have them in this example.

rout of the truss rod peghead is wrong. Rics tend to be more like a triangle. Others can comment of the truss rods themselves if the nuts are wrong or not.

Serial number plate should say "Ric O Sound", not "StereoSound". And it should have a serial number on it- usually 2 letter at the top, 4 numbers at the bottom.

Pots tend to be CTS on Rics (look for 137 code followed by year/week). Looks at the difference in the Pot cover appearence.

Bindings on Rics do not touch below the bridge, many fakers do but this one does not. Comments? Any comments on this bridge?