Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

You wouldn't believe the amount of confusion getting the correct bar stock for this job was. Why was that ?

Well, I was hopelessly confused by the fact that although all the grown-ups were telling me that the correct rod dimension was 5/32, the rods I got out of the bass were clearly 3/16. It never occurred to me of course that this was why they were seized up and broken in the first place, as they were clearly installed by someone who didn't have the first clue what he or she was doing, rather like me it seems. The fact that it almost took Semtex to get the things out of the bass should have clued me in, but no. I was all about to make a second set of wrong ones and hammer them back in there.

Anyway, after finally having my aha moment, Paul W was nice enough to give me some bar stock. I also have some 5/32 303 stainless, but went with the mild steel because it's a little easier to thread up. Here is is cut to length ready to take the thread. It's roughly 24 1/8 long.
Righty Ho, and on with the dies. This is to put an 8/32 thread on the rod. I'm using tap oil to help the process along. Tap oil comes straight from Beelezub's bottom. I have no idea of what they make it from, but it stinks and pervades everything. The photo is blurry, because I'm reeling from the fumes.
OK, there about one inch of threads needed at the the top end for the adjusters, and about 1/8 inch required at the acorn nut anchor end. After that, it's a test fit of all the hardware.
Then it's into the bass body with them. The more observant of you will have noticed that I haven't put any masking tape on them. That's because I have to work out how to get and reinstall the maple packing strips and I want to make sure that I do the masking tape last to avoid binding them up in there.
And on to the next job. Next up, getting the old frets out of the separated fretboard without destroying it....

Thanks for the pics and write-up, Gareth.

Yeah, great stuff, Gareth. Can't wait to see how it turns out.

Yeah, what they said. This is interesting. Do continue, please.
JimK

jimk wrote:Yeah, what they said. This is interesting. Do continue, please.
JimK

+1 I find this most interesting.

gareth wrote:... I'm using tap oil to help the process along. Tap oil comes straight from Beelezub's bottom. I have no idea of what they make it from, but it stinks and pervades everything. The photo is blurry, because I'm reeling from the fumes...

Tap magic is a nasty carcinogen. Be careful with it.

ken_j wrote:

gareth wrote:... I'm using tap oil to help the process along. Tap oil comes straight from Beelezub's bottom. I have no idea of what they make it from, but it stinks and pervades everything. The photo is blurry, because I'm reeling from the fumes...

Tap magic is a nasty carcinogen. Be careful with it.

The MSDS info does not seem to support this claim...
http://www.tapmagic.com/TMmsds.htm

Tap Magic might not be a carcinogen, but don't breathe the vapor:

INHALATION – Minimal anesthetic or narcotic effects may be seen in the range of 500-1000 ppm. Progressively higher levels over 1000 ppm may cause dizziness, drunkenness; concentrations as low as 10,000 ppm can cause unconsciousness and death. In confined or poorly ventilated areas, vapors which readily accumulate can cause unconsciousness and death. These high levels may also cause cardiac arrhythmias (irregular heart beats).


(italics mine)

doctorwho wrote:

jimk wrote:Yeah, what they said. This is interesting. Do continue, please.
JimK

+1 I find this most interesting.

+1 on that.... this is an interesting thread, keep us advised

The first item on the list is 1,1,1 Trichloroethane. This stuff is nasty and besides the fumes will absorb through your skin in a heart beat. We had to remove all of this from the workplace years ago. Never use this when cutting aluminum either. It will turn the aluminum to a black mush while giving off deadly fumes.

I do stand corrected on it being a carcinogen I was posting from memory on why we could no longer use it. When I first started in automotive engineering trades we had this in 55 gallon barrels. People used to wash in this stuff (not me). I did use it regularly for cleaning metal and engine parts.

Here is a link to 1,1,1 Trichloroethane: http://www.temarry.com/chemicals/1,1,1_ ... ethane.htm

ken_j wrote:The first item on the list is 1,1,1 Trichloroethane. This stuff is nasty and will absorb through your skin in a heart beat. We had to remove all of this from the workplace years ago. Never use this when cutting aluminum either. It will turn the aluminum to a black mush while giving off deadly fumes.

Oh that's just lovely Ken, I do hope this stuff is handled with maximum care by anyone who uses it. The information contained on the MSDS just does not seem to provide enough of a warning in this case. Are the instructions for use any better?

In any event what a great thread. Can't wait to see further posts on your progress.

I just read one of the MSDS forms and it says this:

X. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Tap Magic ProTap DOES NOT CONTAIN 1,1,1-trichloroethane or any ozone depleting substances. PROTAP does not contain chlorine, phosphorous, active sulfur, nitrates, nitrite derivatives, amines, polynuclear aromatic compounds either as ingredients or trace contaminants. Tap Magic ProTap does not contain any chemical compound listed on the SARA list of 'Extremely Hazardous Chemicals', and is in compliance with all of the requirements of the TSCA at the time of shipment.
Caution: Any cutting fluid can be "overworked" or "overheated", causing it to break down. This overuse is identified by the sight of or strong odor of vapors or fumes not normally present. The effects of these vapors or fumes on human health have not been fully deter¬mined. After use of this product, clean and lubricate metal surfaces to avoid staining and/or corrosion.

Tap Magic is available in over a dozen formulations. The warning I quoted is from the original (and by far the most commonly-available) of their products.

Tap Magic Aluminum was developed decades ago to eliminate that "black, mushy"problem when using the Original formulation.

This where I linked to: http://www.tapmagic.com/MSDS_TMO.htm

And found that it stated in part:

This MSDS covers part numbers 40004R, 40016R, 40128R, 40640R, 43840R and 47040R for
Tap Magic Original Cutting Fluid. Click for a printable PDF.

MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF LABOR, OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION, HAZARD COMMUNICATION STANDARD, 29 CFR 1910.1200

The Steco Corporation
2330 Cantrell Road
P.O. Box 2238
Little Rock, AR 72203

Emergency Response: (800) 255-3924
Information: (800) 643-8026
Fax #: (501) 374-4278
Date Reviewed: March 12, 2009

TRADE NAME: TAP MAGIC ORIGINAL Cutting Fluid
CHEMICAL NAME & SYNONYMS: Hydrocarbon Mixture
DOT SHIPPING NAME: 1,1,1-Trichloroethane Class 6.1 UN 2831, III
HMIS/NFPA CODE: Health 2; Fire 0; Reactivity 1; Specific - solvent
MANUFACTURING CODE NO.: 8358
COMMODITY CODE NO.: 332-9150

I. HAZARDOUS INGREDIENTS

1,1,1 Trichloroethane: CAS # 71-55-6 • OSHA PEL ppm, 350 • ACGIH TLV ppm, 350 • Other limits recommended, STEL-450 • Max. %, 90.

Tert-butyl alcohol: CAS # 75-65-0 • OSHA PEL ppm, 100 • ACGIH TLV ppm, 100 • Other limits recommended, STEL-150 • Max %, 3.

1,2-Butylene Oxide: CAS # 106-88-7 • OSHA PEL ppm, not listed • ACGIH TLV ppm, Other limits recommended, est. STEL-100 • Max. %, 3.

Dimethoxymethane: CAS # 109-87-5 • OSHA PEL ppm, 1000 • ACGIH TLV ppm, 1000 • Other limits recommended, STEL-1250 • Max. % 3.

Petroleum Oil, aliphatic: CAS # 68815-10-1 • OSHA PEL ppm, not listed • ACGIH TLV ppm, not listed • Other limits recommended, not listed • Max. %, 3.

Vegetable Oil, essential: CAS # 8007-80-5 • OSHA PEL ppm, not listed • ACGIH TLV ppm, not listed • Other limits recommended, not listed • Max. %, 3.
...

Thanks Ken and Paul. It looks like whoever uses it really needs to be careful about its potential side effects