Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I've been wondering for a long time: what's the correct way to wipe a guitar after use, back and forth, or in a circular manner?

Most important is not how, but what with.

Most of us who've bought an older JG instrument that's seen a fair amount of use have seen how old and worn it looks. Many of us have taken the trouble to recondition the paint using the Scratch-X/Zymol regimen, and we've all been surprised at the difference. So, the issue is not with the factory finish, but with how it was treated over the course of years.

If you want the finish on your new or reconditioned RIC to look like new for years to come, wipe it down with the factory cloth, and keep the factory cloth in a clean Zip Loc bag. A good alternative is clean, unprinted T-shirt material, provided that it's 100% cotton (no synthetic blends). The BEST is a freshly-laundered, brand-new cloth diaper, which is cotton (material) muslin (open weave).

RIC conversion varnish has a surface that's softer than many common substances and most man made fabric fibers. You need to use a natural fiber of the softest texture available.

Dampening the fabric slightly with a light spritz of clean water from an atomizer bottle, also helps, as the water lubricates the surface and allows wiping off salts from sweat while minimizing scratching from the crystals. Don't, however, dampen the factory cloth, and don't store a dampened cloth in a ply bag, as it will grow mildew and mold.

If you notice haloing (very light scratches in strong point light sources) appearing, it's time to get out the wax. I still use Zymol Cleaner-Wax, which is being distributed more widely every week. Haven't found a worthy substitute or replacement.

Man-made fibers, including microfiber cloths, are monofilament in nature (like fishing line, but much finer) and, although they feel soft due to their very fine cross-section as extruded, the individual fibers are still of a material harder than CV, and can deliver abrasive dust to the surface (as can any fiber cloth that's not clean, including the factory cloth!), and will cause haloing and scratching. Avoid microfibers, is my advice.

Then wipe--lightly--in any direction you wish.

So... no more chamois for me? Is the chamois too abrasive? I tend to use cotton tees for the wipedown at home, but I keep a few soft 'shammies' in my case for live performance use.

Chamois skins are OK if they are cleaned. These won't scratch, but if there's abrasive dust on the surface, well...

Anyway, any Rickenbacker will eventually show fine scratches and need waxing. Waxing is the best protection if it's important to you that your instrument stay new-looking.

merci, merci

Thank you thank you thank you, Paul!

Yes, I was really surprised at what the Scratch X and Zymol treatment could achieve when I did it for the first time to my 4003 Shadow last spring. The greenish hue was replaced by glassy blackness! I've been a fan of the treatment ever since!

paul_yan wrote:The greenish hue was replaced by glassy blackness! I've been a fan of the treatment ever since!

Well, that's interesting.

I'm glad to see we're all mature enough that no one answered, "always wipe from front to back". Oh Rats, I just did.

jingle_jangle wrote:Chamois skins are OK if they are cleaned. These won't scratch, but if there's abrasive dust on the surface, well...

Chamois ..... no one mentioned the Sham Wow guy ??

You just did!

Where can this Scratch-X be obtained? I've a JG4003 that needs some wax love and I hear using carnuba is a bad idea.

How about medical cotton wool? And another question: There are some car polishing devices, any recommendations?

Prowl wrote:Where can this Scratch-X be obtained? I've a JG4003 that needs some wax love and I hear using carnuba is a bad idea.

Scratch-X and its kin aren't waxes--they're polishes. After using this type of product, you must apply wax.

Scratch-X has had its formula revised, and not for the better. It's now superceded by a product called "Swirl-X" from Meguiar's, which seems to be a bit tougher to locate. Target, K-Mart, W*l-M*rt, and Chain auto stores like Pep Boys and Kragen are all good places to check, though.

My latest fave is NuFinish Scratch Doctor for Clear Coat. It comes in an orange squeeze bottle and is universally available at larger Walgreen's and the stores mentioned above. However, don't use any of the Nu-Finish waxes because they are polymer formulas, not wax. Johnson's Kit also makes a scratch remover in a yellow squeeze bottle.

For the final wax coat(s), after nearly a decade I still haven't found anything better than Zymol Cleaner-Wax (in a light blue bottle). Its point of difference from virtually all other waxes available is a total lack of silicones and petroleum distillates. Because it's water-based, you can build up one coat on top of another. Do you want the paint to look wet, as if it's never dried? This stuff's the trick.

In fact, carnauba (note spelling) is the best sun and UV protection you can give paint after the fact. It is "sweated" by palm trees near the equator, in order to protect their leaves from sunburn. Once refined and blended, it is a component of the best waxes made.

heinpete wrote:How about medical cotton wool? And another question: There are some car polishing devices, any recommendations?

Dr. Peter, diapers are the best. Medical cotton wool is not aggressive enough and will tend to tear and bunch.

The best car polishing device in existence is the human arm, hand and fingers.

jingle_jangle wrote:

Prowl wrote:Where can this Scratch-X be obtained? I've a JG4003 that needs some wax love and I hear using carnuba is a bad idea.

Scratch-X and its kin aren't waxes--they're polishes. After using this type of product, you must apply wax.

Scratch-X has had its formula revised, and not for the better. It's now superceded by a product called "Swirl-X" from Meguiar's, which seems to be a bit tougher to locate. Target, K-Mart, W*l-M*rt, and Chain auto stores like Pep Boys and Kragen are all good places to check, though.

My latest fave is NuFinish Scratch Doctor for Clear Coat. It comes in an orange squeeze bottle and is universally available at larger Walgreen's and the stores mentioned above. However, don't use any of the Nu-Finish waxes because they are polymer formulas, not wax. Johnson's Kit also makes a scratch remover in a yellow squeeze bottle.

For the final wax coat(s), after nearly a decade I still haven't found anything better than Zymol Cleaner-Wax (in a light blue bottle). Its point of difference from virtually all other waxes available is a total lack of silicones and petroleum distillates. Because it's water-based, you can build up one coat on top of another. Do you want the paint to look wet, as if it's never dried? This stuff's the trick.

In fact, carnauba (note spelling) is the best sun and UV protection you can give paint after the fact. It is "sweated" by palm trees near the equator, in order to protect their leaves from sunburn. Once refined and blended, it is a component of the best waxes made.

Hey Paul sorry about the PM. I sent it to you before I saw that you answered this. So is Swirl X safe to use because I can get it very easy here or would you prefer the NuFinish Scratch Doctor over it? Also I can't get Zymol here so would i be ok with the Carnuba I have? Or would you recommend something else?