Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I was flipping through Tony Bacon's Ric 12-string book and saw some 12-string models pictured with a 12-saddle bridge. Are they readily available? How much? Will one fit my 330/12?
BTW, the book is OK, but could be better. I think most of Bacon's books are like that.

elreydlp wrote:I was flipping through Tony Bacon's Ric 12-string book and saw some 12-string models pictured with a 12-saddle bridge. Are they readily available? How much? Will one fit my 330/12?

Yes, $125 or so, and yes.

BTW, the book is OK, but could be better. I think most of Bacon's books are like that.

Yeah, the pictures are nice, but there isn't nearly enough minutiae (heck, the finished fretboards don't even get a mention in the 1994 book!) Bacon and Day need to take a cue from Andre Duchossoir.

- Scott

Skip,

There's another thread somewhere on this forum about the 12-saddle bridge. Some players are bothered by intonation problems and choose to replace the stock 6-saddle bridge (this involves notching the new bridge to the player's specs). Other purists complain that some of that classic Rickenbacker sound is lost when you switch bridges. I would make sure you're having real intonation issues before you even consider replacing your bridge. If you do choose to order one, the best source is Chris Clayton at Pick of the Ricks in Lindenwold, NJ.

Robert

[quote="scott_sYeah, the pictures are nice, but there isn't nearly enough minutiae (heck, the finished fretboards don't even get a mention in the 1994 book!) Bacon and Day need to take a cue from Andre Duchossoir. - Scott[/quote]

Or Tom Wheeler or Richard Smith.

Mike Parks also has the 12-saddle bridge (part # 00821) on his parts/accessories page:

http://www.the-music-connection.com/ricpart.htm#bridges

and it appears to be in stock at the RIC Boutique, as well:

http://www.rickenbacker.com/cart.asp?category=Bridges

Skip

You can test out my 360-12 at the upcoming jam session and see how it compares to your 330-12. I had Seattle Luthier Mark Arnquist perform his 12 string tune-up. He "Arnquisted" the nut with his string-spacing technique, replaced the stock bridge with the 12-saddle bridge and "Toasterized" the stock High Gains.

There are two opposing philiosophies or beliefs on this.... Traditionalists think the stock bridge gives Rics their "personality." Others think the laws of nature and physics demand that each individual string have its own saddle for true intonation. There are many threads on this topic, both on the RRF and also on the Ric company forum. Each side has it's good ideas and viewpoints. In the end, it will come down to your subjective feel for the tone you seek.

It's a reversible mod - go for it if you can handle the small financial downside in the event it doesn't work for you.

If you want purrrfffect intonation (or just about), go with the 12-saddle bridge, and pay BIG attention to nut height because this will really affect the first 3 or 4 frets. That's what I found with my 660/12.

If you want the jangle or traditional sound, stick with the 6-saddle. I think that part of the "charm" is that stuff can be just slightly out of tune. I used to have a 330/12, but had to sell it at the time. Now have a 660/12 and a cheapie Dean 12-string, with strings reversed à la Ric, and the Dean does sound more Byrd-like with the intonation slightly off on the string pairs rather than dead-on.

Thanks guys. I think I'm going to take Rich up on his offer to try his 360/12. I think the nut-heighth might be part of my problem on my Dano 6/12 doubleneck. The 330 is better but not "perfect". After I check out Rich's, I'll decide whether to go with the 12-saddle arrangement. A buddy who's a dealer has quoted me $120.00 it.
Thanks again for your input.