Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Hi Guys
I recently ordered a new nut (part no 03295) for my 660/12 due to the nut slots in the original nut being far too far apart and not big enough for the D and A wound strings, which made the guitar impossible to play.
The original nut is really thick and comparing to two they are completely different in size, shape and slot spacing. I tried to replace it and as you can see due the the new nut being slimmer there is a gap between the nut and the neck which, when the strings are bought back to proper tension causes the nut to lean back away from the neck. How can I make sure the new nut stays flat against the neck and how do I fill the gap that the old nut has left?

I'm really at the end of my tether with the gutar to be honest, wish I'd never purchased it.

Pics below


Old Nut


Old Nut on guitar


New Nut on guitar


Comparison between old and new nut, old one on top

The nut should be glued to the end of the fingerboard. Looks like yours also needs the nut slots to be cut so they aren't so tall. (This is normal.)

- Scott

Stuart: It is worth taking this to a guitar tech to get it set up. Making personal adjustments to suit the fingering and playing style of the player is something that is done all the time. No one set up fits all. Do not let this simple fix frustrate you as once it is completed all will be well.

Thanks for the advice guys, I guess what I really should have asked is why is there so much discrepancy in size and design between the original nut and the replacement? Surely they would be exactly the same? It seems like the Rick factory ran out of 660/12 nuts and just quickly made a cheap replacement.
The string spacing on the factory original is ridiculous, the gap between the two A strings is huge and the low E is virtually hanging over the edge of the neck so it normally slips off when fingered. Due to the difference in thickness between the two nuts, fitting the replacement will leave a gap between the nut and the nameplate. I guess a guitar tech is the only option, but it's money I can't afford to spend

Every guitar is slightly different. The replacement nut is taller so that you have some material to work with to fit it to your instrument. Usually this entails filing/sanding down the bottom of the nut until the resulting string height is correct for your setup. I'm no luthier, but have replaced a nut on my cheap Tele copy. It took me a loooong time to get it close enough for my sloppy playing on that cheap guitar. When RIC sends out a replacement nut I imagine they expect that the person who receives it understands what it takes to get it on the guitar properly.

As someone else posted already--on RICs there is no nut slot per-se. The nut must be glued to the end of the fingerboard. Thickness (along the string direction) isn't critical, but the nut must be vertical at the end of the fingerboard or you are going to have a big intonation problem. I hope that helps.

Stuart, from the photos it seems that you have really no issues to be concerned about. The new nut might be very slightly thinner, but usually that tiny gap can be taken up by loosening the truss rod cover screws and pushing the cover up against the nut after you've glued the nut into place. Nut's gotta be glued. No slots like Fenders...

A Jaguar is not a Buick. A Rickenbacker is not a Fender.

Thanks for the help guys, I'm gonna get it booked in with my local tech and have the nut replaced. I would really love to hear your opinions on the string spacing on the current nut though. Would you agree with me that they are all far too far apart, esp the A strings.

Here is a current picture.

I assume you mean the string pairs.

Looks like standard ex-factory spacing to me. Stuart. If personal taste dictates having them closer-spaced, by all means get it redone to your ideals.

I would get someone to custom make a nut for you. And set the guitar up. Will make a world of difference.

Yup. That's the ticket. It sometimes takes a while to get these things set up the way it works best for you, so don't lose hope. When you do finally get there though, there just isn't anything else quite like it. If I can get this type of tightly-paired, spread-out setup to work on a 360/12 neck (and it does both play and sound fantastic) you should end up with all kinds of room on a 660/12 neck.