Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Good morning,

I did a search in the forum but didn't get any hits on the following question. What secures the nut to the neck on a '97 or so 4003? I have ordered 2ea replacement nuts from Rickenbacker because I had filed the nut slots too deelpy and I'm getting unacceptable fret buzz in the first position on the neck and I want to try a new nut with some stock sized strings to relieve that problem. I'd like to know what's involved with removing the nut (risk of damage if a strong adhesive is used, for example) and what you would recommend to secure the new nut.

Thanks all!

I recently did some research on this issue. To remove the nut, place a flathead screwdriver between the nut and fretboard and gently tap it off using a hammer. Someone also suggested using an Exacto knife to score the area where the nut meets the fretboard so as not to damage binding or the fretboard lacquer.

Also, a drop of super glue will work when attaching the new nut. Just make sure you sand off any remaining glue residue.

I wouldn't use any glue, It should fit snug. Hopefully it's slotted, you don't want to go filing away unless you have the right size files. Anyway, on a new one you'll want to sand down the bottom of the nut till you get it at the right height.

The glue of choice is a drop of white glue. You don't want the nut falling off or moving around on you, but you want to be able to remove it again, if ever needed, with a similar tap - and not find yourself in a situation where you're trying to break a superglue bond without tearing something up.

I wouldn't use a screwdriver, but rather a piece of wood like a paint stirrer. Just lay it against the nut, parallel to the board and gently tap. No need to score the finish, as it's not attached to the nut which will pop clear and away. A drop of white or wood glue to re-attach it.

Perfect, the tips will help immensly!

FWIW, there's no slot that I can see which the nut rests in, but per the advice here, I don't think that will be an issue.

Thanks again!

Superglue + baking soda in the old slots. Carefully put a little baking soda in the old slot bottom and add superglue. You can refile to taste. Careful not to get it on the finish and you may not even have to replace the nut.

On my basses the nut has conversion varnish on the ends when the bass was sprayed. The is where you would score with the Xacto so as not to chip the varnish on the sides of the neck.

GATSBY wrote: Anyway, on a new one you'll want to sand down the bottom of the nut till you get it at the right height.

Filing the bottom of the nut is NOT the way to set the action of each string properly. The nut needs to be glued on and the bass strung up and tuned to pitch with the neck adjusted flat. Then each slot should be filed a little at a time while checking that the string doesn't buzz on the first fret when struck hard. You can check it by touching a string to the second fret. The string should then be just a hair above the first fret.

johnallg wrote:On my basses the nut has conversion varnish on the ends when the bass was sprayed. The is where you would score with the Xacto so as not to chip the varnish on the sides of the neck.

Right, John, but this is a '97. The way yours are is true of instruments older than circa 1984, but around then they began installing the nut after the varnish was applied.

dricard wrote: I'm getting unacceptable fret buzz in the first position on the neck ...

Welcome to the forum, David.

When you said "first position", did you mean the notes on the first few frets or just the open notes that buzz? If it's only the first few frets but not the open notes, your neck might be "too dead straight" or even back-bowed (convex). If it's only the open notes that buzz, then the culprit is the nut slots being too deep.

paul_yan wrote:

dricard wrote: I'm getting unacceptable fret buzz in the first position on the neck ...

Welcome to the forum, David.

When you said "first position", did you mean the notes on the first few frets or just the open notes that buzz? If it's only the first few frets but not the open notes, your neck might be "too dead straight" or even back-bowed (convex). If it's only the open notes that buzz, then the culprit is the nut slots being too deep.

Hi Paul, and everyone, thanks for the input. I'm getting fret buzz with open dtrings, but also some on the 1st thru 3rd fret (which is what I think the first position is), so the symptoms are probably indicating both the lack of neck bow and the nut slots being too low.

Good advice from all, I will put it to good use when the nut(s) come in! Thanks again!

nut came off easily with a hammer and a paint stirrer stick, gentle taps and off it came. it didn't sit in a channel nor did it chip the CV when it came off so thats good. Taking the opportunity to put the original bridge back on in place of the hipshot which has been there 4 years.

dricard wrote:nut came off easily with a hammer and a paint stirrer stick, gentle taps and off it came. it didn't sit in a channel nor did it chip the CV when it came off so thats good. Taking the opportunity to put the original bridge back on in place of the hipshot which has been there 4 years.

Glad to hear it went well, and that you're restoring the original bridge/tailpiece, too.

Well done.