Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I am sure this has been covered before. I just want to double check..This is the first Ric I have ever had to do this on. My other 350 the neck is straight as they come. The nuts I can turn by hand.

I just purchased a new 350v63 . On arrival the neck seemed to be quite back bowed . It's cold here so I let it set for 3 days untouched.

When adjusting the trussrods. I know this is personal preference. I laid an 18 inch straight edge on the top of the frets bass side. There was clearly close to an 1/8 gap in the middle . It took 3 nut flat turns and now it's better but still some gap there. The nut has turned easy. I would guess I am about 1/2 to a whole nut turn away from being dead flat against it. In checking the treble side I see little if any-gap.

What I'd like to ask. Again I realize personal preference: Should I take it right to flat or leave the little gap. Also my Bridge has a slight learn toward the headstock . Is this the norm? should the base of it look level? It's not terrible. Appears one of the screws needs a slight turn. It's not rocking so maybe this is what it show be like. I don't see anything in the manual that specific. I can tell it needs a slight bit of adjustment still. My strings are almost to close to the board but I don't have any string buzz. I notice it more difficult to bend strings without catching another on release.

MyBBruce wrote:I am sure this has been covered before. I just want to double check..This is the first Ric I have ever had to do this on. My other 350 the neck is straight as they come. The nuts I can turn by hand.

If you mean with your bare fingers, that should not be. You'll need to snug them up, however, slightly, so that there's some tension on the truss rods, however little.

MyBBruce wrote:I just purchased a new 350v63 . On arrival the neck seemed to be quite back bowed . It's cold here so I let it set for 3 days untouched.

When adjusting the trussrods. I know this is personal preference. I laid an 18 inch straight edge on the top of the frets bass side. There was clearly close to an 1/8 gap in the middle .

Then your neck was not "back bowed". Rather, it had a condition of excessive relief. Too much string tension, too little truss rod tension; probably both.

MyBBruce wrote:It took 3 nut flat turns and now it's better but still some gap there. The nut has turned easy. I would guess I am about 1/2 to a whole nut turn away from being dead flat against it. In checking the treble side I see little if any-gap.

I'd hold off here and give it time to find its equilibrium, before tightening. This takes a day or two.

MyBBruce wrote:What I'd like to ask. Again I realize personal preference: Should I take it right to flat or leave the little gap. Also my Bridge has a slight learn toward the headstock . Is this the norm? should the base of it look level? It's not terrible. Appears one of the screws needs a slight turn. It's not rocking so maybe this is what it show be like. I don't see anything in the manual that specific. I can tell it needs a slight bit of adjustment still. My strings are almost to close to the board but I don't have any string buzz. I notice it more difficult to bend strings without catching another on release.

Factory recommends flat: no relief. Some players prefer a bit of relief. That's up to you. I've set up countless Ricks to be dead flat and with minimal string height, as many players like the easy fretting of Ricks. But actual settings are up to your taste. The bridge should be level, not tilted in either direction, although it may show a bit more height on the bass side. I recently took in a Rick to tune-up, that had the bridge tilted over until it touched the bridge pickup--about a 45-degree angle. The player complained that it wouldn't play in tune...as it never would, as the scale length had been shortened by the bridge tilt, to the point that the 12th fret sounded a fell semitone sharp. So, we'll get it playing like a champ once I'm done with the setup and intonation.

As to har far the strings are from the board, that, too, is a matter of preference and playing style. If you like to "dig in", you're going to want more room for the strings to move around. Regarding note bending--Rick necks are narrower than most, so you'll have to get used to it, but it won't be a deterrent after awhile, anymore.

Thanks Paul. I think I will just level out the the bridge tilt -check intonation and play it a few days. I'm actually finding that bends are easier with the board really flat and the strings close. A second fret country bend doesn't work to well but than again I have telecaster for that type of music. I bought these 350's to use more as rhythm guitars Although I am a bender by nature and a lead player so it's hard to not do what you like playing the most. I just needed your expert advice to make sure I'm on the right track with adjustments

Thanks again

I was surprised that this neck was delivered with so much more relief ? I won't mention the Dealer because it was an authorized one. They sold me the guitar at 1995.00 and it's Brand New. Naturally I called the store wanting to know why the setup was so funky. I was told a setup is not included at the price I paid. I didn't ask for the price. That's what they told me via email when I inquired on it. I suppose it doesn't matter. I called 2 Ric Dealers in my state and they bought told me I should have some relief between 7-12 . That's a Fender or Gibson . They acted as if I was crazy when I said dead flat no relief board. People are lucky that live near you.

Paul

Hopefully you'll see this. I have the neck pretty flat. Actually did have a bit of back bow on the treble side. The treble side rod was just snug tight so I backed off the bass side. This seemed to level out the treble side of the board. Having really no bass side effect that was noticeable.

I took the bridge completely off -adjusted all the posts so it would set as high as it could possibly go. I went so far as to count the exposed threads a well as measure. I wanted to make sure everything was even. I did make the treble side 2 threads lower to start.

Even after doing this when I set the bridge in place it appears to lean ever so slightly forward . This is with no strings. I can only assume this has to do with the body slant. The base seemed flat. I restrung using a capo to hold the strings and not tip the bridge. Once strung I evenly dropped the bridge to where it seems to play good. On the treble side I went by how the string bends were feeling.
Actually it wasn't very much adjustment. Rickenbacker has it pretty close naturally once you get the boards flat. I didn't really bother to measure string height. I just went by sound and the feel of bends as stated.

Only other thing is intonation. Fretting at the 12th and open it's just the Hi and low E that seem to be very very slightly off. Both are just a hair sharp. This is with the open and Harmonic right on. The A-D-G & B strings are dead on with no adjustment needed .

Obviously you can't see it. Does it sound like I did this correctly?

My trial wife used to shout at me like that back in '71 or so...

Sounds like you did everything right, except the bridge should not look tilted, so maybe a second or ten with a small and very accurate scale (what machinists and model makers call a "scale", we mortals call a "ruler"...)to check this. Or, have a good look again--sometimes, people's eyes are better at spotting this sort of thing. If it IS tilted, do what you can to level it off. Forget about stuff like counting threads (at 40 per inch, you wanna go blind???).

Now you need to set the intonation on those two Es. Lengthen the scale by turning the screws for those two saddles in a clockwise direction with a 5/64" (.075") Allen wrench. If you don't have an electronic tuner, time to spring for a cheap one to help you get those octaves spot-on. $20 will get you a Roland that fits in your pocket.

Best way to go about anything like this is in a methodical manner. Don't get super-obsessive about one aspect and slack off on another because you don't think it's important. Give everything equal respect and attention and you'll fall into a habit of analysis and problem-solving that is highly efficient and productive.

jingle_jangle wrote:

My trial wife used to shout at me like that back in '71 or so...

Didn't mean to yell

sounds like you did everything right, except the bridge should not look tilted, so maybe a second or ten with a small and very accurate scale (what machinists and model makers call a "scale", we mortals call a "ruler"...)to check this. Or, have a good look again--sometimes, people's eyes are better at spotting this sort of thing. If it IS tilted, do what you can to level it off. Forget about stuff like counting threads (at 40 per inch, you wanna go blind???).

I'm 55 years of age. Just have been fortunate with the eyes so far. Although I have a nice 6 inch 64/th scale ruler. I'll give that a try.

Now you need to set the intonation on those two Es. Lengthen the scale by turning the screws for those two saddles in a clockwise direction with a 5/64" (.075") Allen wrench. If you don't have an electronic tuner, time to spring for a cheap one to help you get those octaves spot-on. $20 will get you a Roland that fits in your pocket.

I have 2 good Chromatic tuners . I went and measured string ht. Capo'd and 12th fret measurement shows 5/64 and 4/64 so I could actually lower my strings more. I know Rickenbacker says to straighten the neck first. I know that works but I have also noticed as I lower the bridge my neck tension seems less. I'm not sure but I may be able to back the bass side rod off a little. I'll be patient with Minor adjustments and just play it awhile.

Best way to go about anything like this is in a methodical manner. Don't get super-obsessive about one aspect and slack off on another because you don't think it's important. Give everything equal respect and attention and you'll fall into a habit of analysis and problem-solving that is highly efficient and productive.

Thanks for helping me out. Having an expert point you in the right direction is better than a manual any day. Much appreciated

jingle_jangle wrote:Don't get super-obsessive about one aspect and slack off on another because you don't think it's important. Give everything equal respect and attention and you'll fall into a habit of analysis and problem-solving that is highly efficient and productive.

not that i like to big anyone up(or indeed own up to that i never seem to start a sentence with a capital anymore) im not cause Paul is still a numpty but what i would like to say is this that is a statement that if everyone adhered to in life would be splendid.Sometimes the best thing to do is take a step back and not to rush in.


great advice sometimes takes me a while to soak in but when it does im a wallower.

BTW Paul My Grannie used to say

"Many a good tune on a old fiddle"

and my Granddad retorted

"Not if youve a bent bow"

jingle_jangle wrote:Now you need to set the intonation on those two Es. Lengthen the scale by turning the screws for those two saddles in a clockwise direction with a 5/64" (.075") Allen wrench. If you don't have an electronic tuner, time to spring for a cheap one to help you get those octaves spot-on. $20 will get you a Roland that fits in your pocket.

If you have an iPhone or iTouch, get the TC Electronics PolyTune app for $9.99 - works like 100 times that amount. Not affiliated, just a happy camper.

Thanks guys..Appreciate the advice..Made it simple