Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Hi all -

I've got an '86 4001v63 that needs a trussrod tweak. I have an Xcelite L8 1/4" wrench, bought it on eBay, I was sure it was the right tool. It's the same one that's for sale in the RIC boutique, BTW.

It's definetily not the right tool. I just can't get it down properly on the nuts. It's too tight.

What's the right tool for v63 trussrods, if a 1/4" wrench isn't?

Thanks!

It should be the right tool. Someone may have changed out your truss rod nuts for ones with a larger hex. One of my Ricks is like that.

I use a nut driver with interchangeable sockets. It works better than my old Exellite. I actually threw my Excellite away! Try different sockets until you find the right size.

Someone may have changed out your truss rod nuts for ones with a larger hex. One

If a 1/4" wrench is the correct size for a v63 nut, someone probably did just that.

I can, with some effort, turn the nuts with the 1/4" wrench, but it will ruin the nuts in the long run. It's just not the right size.

Thanks Jeff, I will try out some other wrench sizes and see what happens.

Ole

Are you sure it's the nuts that are wrong? Sometimes Ric basses have the nuts too close to the wood for you to slip the driver over them and you have to chisel a tiny bit of finish off and then, as if by magic, the driver fits. Happened with my 2010 4003.

cassius987 wrote:Are you sure it's the nuts that are wrong? Sometimes Ric basses have the nuts too close to the wood for you to slip the driver over them and you have to chisel a tiny bit of finish off and then, as if by magic, the driver fits. Happened with my 2010 4003.

This is true too.

Also check the inside of your Excellite driver. Mine had a couple of metal blobs left inside somehow in the machining process that kept it from fitting well on the nuts, and caused it to hack up a few nuts a little bit.

Thanks for your advice, guys.

Checked the inside for blobs. Nothing. And plenty of room to the wood.
I get the socket about 1 mm or less down the nut (thats 0.036"..), juuust enough to turn the nut (it turns easily...), but I'm chewing it up in the process.

Ole

Ole, can you post a picture?

Sure,

They're all clickable to proper size.

While we're at it:

1) The nuts seems to dig into that metal piece, whatever it's called..what's happening here??

2) What's happening with the left nut? Bending towards the right one..

3) Both nuts seem to bend OUTWARDS and push towards the TRC - I can't get the TRC flush with the headstock.

The neck is straight and fine, only needs the occasional tweak now and then, I guess because of changing weather/humidity conditions. Once or twice a year. Seems to respond the way it should.

Any opinions on the state of the rods/nuts here are greatly appreciated.

Thanks, guys.













And the nuts bending outwards;

Yikes! A picture is worth a thousand words I guess.

I didn't know that any V63's were made with the old-style truss rods, but that appears to be the aluminum thrust block that was used with the old-style rods.

I'm thinking that the reason your Excellite nut driver won't fit on the nuts is because there is so much of the threaded end of the rod protruding from the nut. The protruding end might be hitting the inside of the socket before the socket can grab the nut. Maybe a deep-well socket on a nut driver would work better.

I think we need more opinions. Could it be possible that someone put an old-style thrust block on a bass that has the new truss rod system?

Thanks again, Jeff -

Yikes! A picture is worth a thousand words I guess.

I didn't know that any V63's were made with the old-style truss rods, but that appears to be the aluminum thrust block that was used with the old-style rods.

So you mean I've got a v63 with 4001 style truss rods? Not very likely, is it? Interesting though, sure would like some more opinions on this. I've tweaked the rods as if they were 4003 rods, and no fretboard popping so far.. Haven't messed around with the rods that much though.

I'm thinking that the reason your Excellite nut driver won't fit on the nuts is because there is so much of the threaded end of the rod protruding from the nut. The protruding end might be hitting the inside of the socket before the socket can grab the nut. Maybe a deep-well socket on a nut driver would work better.

I've checked that out. The hole in the driver is wide and deep enough to room the rod protruding from the nut.

BTW this bass has got a history here at RRF, I believe it was owned by several members here, so if any previous owners can shed some light, I would be greatful.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=387821&hilit=4001v63&start=0

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=395503

BTW, this is the sweetest playing, looking and sounding bass I've ever had and the neck is SO sweet.

Also clickable:

Off topic, but, you should usually adjust the truss rods with the strings installed and tuned to pitch for the most accurate adjustment. Although you were probably just pushing those strings out of the way for the photos.

yes, I only loosened and put aside the strings to get better pix of the nuts.

Ole, does your nut driver fit well onto other RIC truss rods nuts?

Ole, to decide the type of rods, look at the body end. If a square channel shows, then they are the old style. If an acorn nut (rounded cap on a hex nut) then the new style rods. I see the aluminum block is broken in two, that is not right or good. You can make a new one from aluminum stock. The nuts look like they are a ways onto the rods and if the new style, which I'm guessing because of the model, year of build, and the look of the exposed threads, then it is possible and probable the nuts at the other end are moving up further into the maple. If that is the case, you'd need to pull the rods, use superglue to harden the maple at the body end where the nuts sit, use appropriate washers to fit the holes and rods at the body end to bring the neck end of the rods back to where they should be. Compare this V63 to a 4003 to know the measurement.

Good luck with sorting this all out.