Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

....on my 4001?......(the 1/4 inch)

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Truss_rods/ ... nches.html

I've got one of those Gibson thingies... mine doesn't work on my Rics, if the 1/4th works take it, as it's handy with the screwdriver end!

anyone have this?

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Truss_rods/ ... nches.html

I got the Rickenbacker version, maybe more expensive, but I was sure it would fit!

Wildberry wrote:I got the Rickenbacker version, maybe more expensive, but I was sure it would fit!

Never thought of that,....thanks!

I've used one of these for years.

http://www.carvinguitars.com/products/s ... TR1&cid=43

cheyenne wrote:I've used one of these for years.

http://www.carvinguitars.com/products/s ... TR1&cid=43

Looks like a great find, cool looking thing! Glad it works for your Rick too. 2 uses - good price - sounds like the winner.

johnnysain wrote:

cheyenne wrote:I've used one of these for years.

http://www.carvinguitars.com/products/s ... TR1&cid=43

Looks like a great find, cool looking thing! Glad it works for your Rick too. 2 uses - good price - sounds like the winner.

You might want to pick up a few other little things while your checking out, their shipping is a little high on the small stuff, so I try to make it worth my while.

The reason that Mr. JH recommends a standard 1/4 inch nutdriver is so that the temptation to put too much torque on the truss rod nuts is avoided. So when I adjust RIC truss rods, I generally use the standard hardware store version of what RIC sells on the website: a standard 1/4 inch nutdriver. That said, I've run across a couple of truss rods here and there that were, er, shall we say, reticent, and required a tad more. So I've used nutdrivers, the little combo tools mentioned, even old-fashioned thinwall socket, extension and ratchet where necessary. But you have to be oh, so careful, and if I had not been doing my setups for going on 35 years now (ever since I took the pickguard screws out of my first Sears & Roebuck to look underneath to see how it worked), combined with rebuilding a Jaguar cylinder head and having to be oh so careful with a torque wrench on the aluminum head and cam covers, developing a feel as to just how far you can go and no further without damage, I would not have resorted to the heavy artillery, but left it for a qualified luthier.

Scott's right on with this. There is, however, a reason to use the longer-shafted nutdriver that Rickenbacker sells and recommends: it places your hand and knuckles clear of the headstock hardware and strings, and gives a more accurate "feel" than a short-handled one.

As I have mentioned, I thin out the head of the nutdriver by grinding it down to about 1/32" wall at the hex corners; it's too thick as it comes to work on anything but brand-new Ricks, and you won't be torquing hard enough with it to need full socket strength. However, don't buy a cheapo driver (non-hardened) and grind it down, or you'll find you've split the socket the first time you use it!

This one works great.....

http://www.amazon.com/Extra-Long-Hollow ... 121&sr=8-1

johnallg wrote:This one works great.....

http://www.amazon.com/Extra-Long-Hollow ... 121&sr=8-1

No grinding needed? (as 'jingle jangle' mentioned)

If not I'll have to revise my plans and get that one!

johnallg wrote:This one works great.....

http://www.amazon.com/Extra-Long-Hollow ... 121&sr=8-1

This is the same tool that RIC sells, Xcelite by Cooper Tools. http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/c ... 7103483720

ken_j wrote:

johnallg wrote:This one works great.....

http://www.amazon.com/Extra-Long-Hollow ... 121&sr=8-1

This is the same tool that RIC sells, Xcelite by Cooper Tools. http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/c ... 7103483720

Good to know!

ken_j wrote:

johnallg wrote:This one works great.....

http://www.amazon.com/Extra-Long-Hollow ... 121&sr=8-1

This is the same tool that RIC sells, Xcelite by Cooper Tools. http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/c ... 7103483720

Thus my sardonic grin.