Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I have just aquired a 1966 330/12 and, as I do with all my 'new' vintage guitars, I decided to restring it straight away. After some research I saw that the original and recomended strings for this period were Vikings, so I duly baught a set (10 guage top E).
As all who have a 12 string Rick must know...its a fun project. After I had wrangled this set on the guitar, I noticed they were much heavier to play (not a problem as I lean towards heavier strings anyway) however the next morning I saw that the neck was slightly concave from top fret to nut. The previous set must have been 9-8 guage and lighter on the bass strings. I'm guessing the previous owner had the trus rods adjusted for the lighter guage. As a temporary measure, I have detuned to D, which incidentaly ain't bad...it growls.
I was just wondering if any one has had a similar experience, or has any advice or warnings....
I must, obviously, take it to a luthier and get it adjusted for the heavier strings...but, is it crucial to do this as soon as possible?
The neck has, after an hour, returned to how it was with the old strings, and I can always capo if I want to play in E

Nigel: You should have no difficulty with 10s on you 330/12 but a truss rod adjustment is likey necessary. Taking it to a luthier knowledgeable in adjustments to Rickenbacker truss rods is advised.

Thanx,only problem is I'm beginning to really like it tuned down to D...Does any one know if leaving it in D isn't a good idea?

Leaving it in D poses no problem of which I am aware.

The truss rods are designed to counteract the tension of the strings. So the answer to your question:

Albertn wrote:Does any one know if leaving it in D isn't a good idea?

depends on the tension of the strings you are using and how the truss rods are currently adjusted. It sounds as if your 10s set tuned down a step are closely aproximating the tension from the old set of 8s or 9s, so you may be good.
On the other hand, if you had a very light set of strings and down-tuned to D, then you might end up with fret buzz due to back-bow of the neck (in other words, the strings would not be exerting enough tension to balance the action of the truss rod). So, leaving your guitar tuned to D may be good or bad, depending on which strings you are using and how the rods are set.

thanx for the input guys...this is my first 12 string (and first Rickenbacker) so all help is appreciated.
I'm going to keep it in D to record a couple of songs, then see what I feel.
Damn! I may just have to buy a 1960s 360/12 to have in E

I live in the North of Sweden (edge of Lappland), and although there are a couple of real good set up guys around, I'm not sure how experienced they are with double truss rods.

Do any of you guys adjust them yourselves? I've maintained my six strings, Gibsons, Fender, Guilds, ranging from 1959-1973, myself...but this is a bit more daunting.

Albertn wrote:...Do any of you guys adjust them yourselves? ...

Yes, I do all of my own maintenance and set-ups on all my guitars, including the Rickenbackers.

BTW, I have a Rickenbacker acoustic 12-string that I initially had tuned a half-step down (to e-flat) with no ill effect. I may go back to the lower tuning, as I think that it played and sounded really nice with the lower tension on the strings.

As long as the neck is straight a D tuning can cause no harm. Not the tone itself is important, the tension counts. Strings with higher gauges make a lower tone at the same tension - at the same length.

I drop every 12string and use a capo. Easier to play. - And it brings You a bit closer to the wider areas of the neck...

One thing not mentioned yet is that with drop tuning you will need to intonate the bridge. You need to do this anyway with the heavier strings. It may be beneficial to visit Joey's bass notes to see the proper way to adjust the neck on your vintage Rick. You can't just add tension to the rods and expect them to work properly. Vintage Ricks are whole different animal when it comes to this. Adjust your truss rods as shown in this video: http://www.joeysbassnotes.com/4001_Setup_Part_2.htm