Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

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Hello all.........I've been working on a 1965 365 restoration, the original thread is here > viewtopic.php?f=13&t=404753

The prior owner sanded the guitar down to the wood, removing the original Mapleglo finish. He then sprayed black enamel on it, followed by clear enamel.

I've gotten the black paint off of the guitar, using lacquer thinner and 2000 grit sandpaper. Mainly lacquer thinner. The black paint that used to be on the guitar has ever-so-slightly seeped into the wood, so there is a vestige, just a vestige, of black in the wood. It looks fine, actually.

At this point the guitar is bare wood.

The quality of the wood merits a natural finish.

1) So......assuming I go with Mapleglo.....what is it, exactly? Where do I get it? How do I apply it?

2) as you can see in the 2nd photo, I've outlined an area where the "vestige" of black paint seeping into the wood is slightly more pronounced than on the rest of the guitar. Any thoughts on how to get that black out of the wood?

Any thoughts?

thanks much!

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"Mapleglo" is just the name of Rickenbacker's natural finish. Like Jetglo (black) or Fireglo (red sunburst) or Azureglo (blue). It's not a product.

sloop_john_b wrote:"Mapleglo" is just the name of Rickenbacker's natural finish. Like Jetglo (black) or Fireglo (red sunburst) or Azureglo (blue). It's not a product.

Thanks John - - are you saying Mapleglo is just CV applied over bare wood? With no preparation of the wood, other than sanding to make sure it's smooth?

My older RICs that are finished in Mapleglo tend to have a honey, or amber, hue to them. I had always assumed that some color had been applied.

I guess, then, that this honey / amber color is due to the interaction of the bare wood + CV and the changes that occur through time to the CV? With no color added?

thanks -

Richard

Sir Ricardo wrote: I guess, then, that this honey / amber color is due to the interaction of the bare wood + CV and the changes that occur through time to the CV? With no color added?

That is correct.

I recall reading somewhere that they put a sealer coat on before the CV, but that's about it...

There is also the option of oil finishing the guitar also, but that can restrict you from painting it in the future in some cases.

cjj wrote:I recall reading somewhere that they put a sealer coat on before the CV, but that's about it...

Vinyl sealer.

We now use vinyl sealer as a "barrier coat" over the bare wood to lock in the oils of the rosewood and ensure good adhesion for our UV sealer and top coats.

I must have been paying attention in class that day.

you have a beautifull guitar!

clear laquered maple wood tends to get amber/honey looking after some jears, if exposed to daylight /UV.
Best results in restoring an Maple finish to vintage looks can reached with nitro celulose laquer. it is nearest to the vintage laquer technics used until the early eighties.

mckuen wrote:Best results in restoring an Maple finish to vintage looks can reached with nitro celulose laquer. it is nearest to the vintage laquer technics used until the early eighties.

Not by Rickenbacker, though, only until 1960, or thereabouts.

Paul W. can tell you whether anything will get the black in the cracks out. Personally, I'm a Jetglo fan, but I understand you're wanting to go for the original finish if possible.

The reason that you have black in the maple grain is because the lacquer thinner diluted the black paint and reduced its viscosity to the point that it seeped into the maple. Had you sanded the old paint off with #220 or #320, dry, the paint would have come off as sanding dust and there would be zero in the grain.

Using #2000 on bare wood is not only overkill, it's a huge time-waster, and in this case the combination of the 2000 and thinner actually set you back somewhat. Now, the guitar (should you still want mapleglo) should be re-sanded dry with #320 open coat aluminum oxide paper in order to give the finish coats something to adhere to- You will have problems if you try to apply a finish over #2000 sanded hardwood surface--it won't stick very well, and even a slight bump will chip it or cause it to flake away. Temperature changes will also pull the surface coat off a surface that's that shiny.

When I wet-sand a finished restoration in order to flatten it for a final buffing to a glassy surface, I only take it to #1000...

mckuen wrote:you have a beautifull guitar!

clear laquered maple wood tends to get amber/honey looking after some jears, if exposed to daylight /UV.
Best results in restoring an Maple finish to vintage looks can reached with nitro celulose laquer. it is nearest to the vintage laquer technics used until the early eighties.

Conversion varnish is far superior to nitrocellulose; that's why RIC used it from 1959 until just a couple of years ago, when UV-cured polyester came on line.

I'd love to see it when it's done.

Hope you post some Pic's.

Glenn