Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I am good with most basses when it comes to tweaking and standard setups and adjustments...... Not so much with the Rics. I am pretty intimidated to be honest. The two I have now are only my 4th and 5th Rics. I never did any adjustments or work at all on the others I had.

With that said.....on my Mapleglo the strings buzz a bit mainly on the G but some on the D too. The buzz is between the 2nd and 5th frets. The neck looks pretty dang straight and I am wondering if the G D side needs a little relief of if the strings need to be raised (how do you do that? is that done with the little screws behind the bridge saddles?)

is there a link to Ric Bass adjustments or some kind of how to thread of video....anything?

anyone????

Perhaps your neck is a bit too dang straight? I prefer a bit of relief in the neck to leave room for StringSwing®.

As to the action height adjustment, the two screws (one on either side of the bridge) is what you turn to set string height; if individual strings need some adjusting, time to get the files out, but that is something i have never had to do with any Rick bass I have had in almost 40 years of Rick-O-Nership™.

The screws in the back of the bridge is for intonation adjustment.

I thought the two screws on the sides of the bridge were used to raise and lower the string mutes?

armybass wrote:I thought the two screws on the sides of the bridge were used to raise and lower the string mutes?

The two screws on either side of the "bridge" adjust string height: The two on the sides of the "Tailpiece", in front of the bridge, adjust the mute:

Jeff means the tiny Allen screws on the bridge, next to your 4 saddles. These raise string height, although if you are buzzing on the first few frets, not sure if raising those is going to help. Like Jeff said, possibly you need a little relief on the D/G side.

Whoops, I see CJ has posted great fotos to show the screw locations.

Sepp

Ohhhhh, they are adjusted with an Allen wrench? I was wondering how the hell I was adjust those. LOL Yeah...I was thinking it needed relief too but I kept hearing everyone say that the neck were supposed to be flat with no relief.

I have not taken the truss cover off yet....is there a standard socket size I will need? Will I have to order a special tool for adjusting the truss?


Sorry for all the newby stupid questions.

armybass wrote:I have not taken the truss cover off yet....is there a standard socket size I will need? Will I have to order a special tool for adjusting the truss?


Sorry for all the newby stupid questions.

There are no stupid questions, only stupid people who don't want to ask for fear they will seem stupid...


The nut size for the truss rods is 1/4 inch. You need a fairly long, thin wall type nut driver like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-Hollow-Nu ... B004UNFR1A Don't be tempted to use any sort of T or ratchet handle because it's too easy to put too much torque on 'em with those and you can break things...

Thank you so much! I will be getting one of those pronto.

I purchased the exact tool and found the socket wall was too thick for any of my 5 Rickenbackers. I took the tool and my trusty belt sander outside, flipped the belt sander upside down and locked the trigger on. I then put the socket end at a slight angle and turned the tool while the belt removed material. This had a lathe effect and removed thickness evenly all around the socket. Every so often I test fit it. It works like a charm on all my basses now.

Sepp

hmmmmm, is it possible to purchase one new that would fit?

The Xcellite tool is the "official" tool, but yeah, the wall thickness may be a bit much. I've never tried it, but I've always thought that one of those hex drive multi-tools with interchangeable 1/4 inch bits might work. They generally have thinner walls than a nut driver, I'm just not sure about the length:
http://www.amazon.com/Snap-Industrial-B ... B0007WGJLK

I have a similar one of those multi-bit tools, I got it for the Columbus Confluence as nobody brought a TR wrench. I have to use it instead of the "official" tool on my 4004L as there is very little clearance in the cavity, otherwise.

Hmmm, guess I may have to buy the Xcellite and a belt sander....wow .... LOL.