Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

These are persnickety things aren't they? I've finally got the action where it should be, the truss rods adjusted and the intonation precise. I'm starting to cop the feel for my new 660-12, but I'm constantly tuning this thing, usually one of the B strings or both Gs. My other guitars don't give this much guff. Any tips?

Tubescreamer wrote:These are persnickety things aren't they? I've finally got the action where it should be, the truss rods adjusted and the intonation precise. I'm starting to cop the feel for my new 660-12, but I'm constantly tuning this thing, usually one of the B strings or both Gs. My other guitars don't give this much guff. Any tips?

Howdy Dave, Did you put fresh strings on your guitar (and what gauge)? I find that if you install the strings carefully that usually prevents most problems with the guitar staying in tune. Make sure the string is wrapped enough times around the tuning post (at least 5-8 wraps). Also, before I discovered Thomastik Infeld flatwound strings, I was using the D'Addario roundwound 12-string set and I was having all kinds of problems with the strings staying in tune, and problems getting the low E and G strings to intonate properly. Once I switched to the flatwounds, no more problems. Bear in mind that a 12-string is always going to be more problematic than a six string with heavy gauge strings, but it's worth the effort!

I did put on fresh strings with plenty of wraps, and they are a D'Addario set (10-46) which is confusing to me. I've been using D'Addarios on my Les Paul forever, and have never had a problem before. I had a Rick 370-6 that work great with them as well. What gauge are your flatwounds?

Tubescreamer wrote:I did put on fresh strings with plenty of wraps, and they are a D'Addario set (10-46) which is confusing to me. I've been using D'Addarios on my Les Paul forever, and have never had a problem before. I had a Rick 370-6 that work great with them as well. What gauge are your flatwounds?

Yeah - I don't understand it either. My experiences have been with 360/12s, so your experience with your 660/12 may differ. In fact, you mentioned that your problems have been with the G and B strings which is not quite the same problem I had.

Before you change anything... if you put on the strings very recently, you could try playing for a few more days and see if the strings stretch out and settle in a bit. That might solve your problems. Also, if your guitar experiences alot of changes in temperature or humidity during the day, that will also likely affect its tuning.

I wish the D'Addarios worked for me because they are the most readily available 12-string set I can find (and one of the cheaper ones). There's no doubt the D'Addarios are fine quality strings. The flatwounds I use are gauged as follows: 10/10 13/13/ 20/10 25/13/ 34/20 44/25. I get the strings from Pick of the Ricks: http://www.pickofthericks.com/products/ ... tring.html

Hope things work out for you.

Thank you much for the info, it's appreciated.

I always pre-stretch my strings before tuning up. Also remember to always tune UP to the note, from flat to pitch, never sharp to pitch. On some guitars this is even more critical than others, but always a good practice.

I would verify the the nut slots aren't too tight. A slight difference in string gauge can cause them to bdnd. You may wnat to try some pencil lead in the slots.

yikes.

3-4 wraps
wound G (.018 or .020)
stretch em
tune regular 6 first then octaves
class dismissed

Tubescreamer wrote:...with plenty of wraps

That may be your problem.

Clint wrote:

Tubescreamer wrote:...with plenty of wraps

That may be your problem.

+1

Dave, also, it helps to embrace the philosophy that when in 12 string mode, half the time you spend tuning and the other half you spend playing out of tune.

admin wrote:Dave, also, it helps to embrace the philosophy that when in 12 string mode, half the time you spend tuning and the other half you spend playing out of tune.

Peter, My 360-12 comes out of the case ready to play. The only tweaking I ever have to do is that one of my original Klusons on one of my B strings tends to have slack, and that's a tuner issue, not a string issue. It's mandolin players who spend half their time tuning and the other half playing out of tune.

A proper setup on the instrument from the start, fresh strings, properly installed, including just the right number of windings smoothly around the post without overlapping or binding, relieved of tension over the nut and bridge as they are installed so nothing slips, properly sized, filed and burnished nut slots and bridge saddles, and always tuning up from flat rather than down from sharp will go a long way to keeping a 12-string in tune.

The recommended sets are either the RIC factory set or the TI flat nickel custom set from Pick-of-the-Ricks. Folks who try to use extra light strings with a plain unison G string and mis-matched low unison and octave E strings will have the most trouble tuning.

Scott, I have owned two Rickenbacker 12 strings and the findings that you have reported are consistent with mine. A good setup with high quality strings works!

A setup makes ALL the difference between, "What's so special about Rickenbacker 12s?", and "Holy Cow! Now I get it!". Ask Kira, John Ashfield, et al...

admin wrote:Dave, also, it helps to embrace the philosophy that when in 12 string mode, half the time you spend tuning and the other half you spend playing out of tune.

Amen!