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Advice, mounting HB1 in bridge position

Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 3:42 am
by petersland
Im installing a toaster in the neck pos of my 4003 and want to try my HB1 in the bridge position.
Which mounts should I use?

Re: Advice, mounting HB1 in bridge position

Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 7:30 am
by weemac
The ABS plate that currently has the standard treble pickup on it is already predrilled to suit to suit the HB-1. Thats just John Hall thinking ahead!
The toaster should fit straight in if you have a bass version or will need some nuts for the mounting screws if it is a guitar one.....

Eden.

Re: Advice, mounting HB1 in bridge position

Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 5:38 pm
by aceonbass
My feeling is that the HB1 will completely overpower the toaster. Especially since the neck pickup can't be adjusted any higher, and it's practically half the output of the HB1. I'd put a current bridge position hi-gain from a guitar in there with the poles replaced by MAGNETIC Allen screws and a toaster cover on it. The hi-gain with it's 12K output will give you that single coil snap in the neck that will balance better with the HB1.

Re: Advice, mounting HB1 in bridge position

Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 6:02 pm
by Badanovski
Are the HB-1s really that much hotter then a toaster ? If they are & you use the .0047 cap. won't the outputs be fairly balanced? Then when you use the HB-1 by itself cut out the cap & it should kick butt. Just wondering.

Re: Advice, mounting HB1 in bridge position

Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 6:13 pm
by aceonbass
HB1's are 15K. I don't particularly care for the sound of an HB1 with the .0047 cap involved. Just sounds too thin to my ears, and even then, it my still be louder. Besides, why hobble the HB1 just so you can use a toaster with it? You'll be able to get a brighter sound out of an HB1 with a .047uF tone cap though, and a 500K volume pot. Many here change their single coils out for HB's here without changing any of the other components, which doesn't get the most out of an HB1. I have a toaster in my 4003 with a RIHS pickup in the bridge, and even at 12K, that pickup is quite a bit louder than the toaster. I may eventually send my toaster to Sergio to be wound hotter. Look at most other basses with single coil/humbucking configurations, and you'll find that he outputs of each of the pickups are balanced.

Re: Advice, mounting HB1 in bridge position

Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 5:44 pm
by aceonbass
aceonbass wrote: You'll be able to get a brighter sound out of an HB1 with a .047uF tone cap though, and a 500K volume pot. Many here change their single coils out for HB's here without changing any of the other components, which doesn't get the most out of an HB1.
Oops.....I meant to say a .022uF tone cap.

Re: Advice, mounting HB1 in bridge position

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 8:24 am
by petersland
Well the toaster I bought turned out to be a fake.
So I've stuck with the HB1 in the neck and bought another HB1 for the bridge.
I've got the output levels pretty matched now so will try on a gig tomorrow night and see.
Next will be to try the 500k pots and Cap Dane suggests.

Re: Advice, mounting HB1 in bridge position

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 1:41 am
by petersland
My 4003 with dual HB1's.
I'm glad I made the choice. She runs in stealth mode now. Just like my 4004.
Nice even levels and I haven't lost too much growl.
A little bit of filing meant I could keep my thumb rest surround too.
All my basses are strung BEAD which makes harmonic adjustments impossible with the factory bridge, hence the hipshot.
Chrome and black is the look ATM.
Might try the 500k pots suggested though
Thoughts?
Image

Re: Advice, mounting HB1 in bridge position

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 2:30 am
by aceonbass
The factory bridge will work with BEAD tuning. Did you use some crazy big gauge strings? Did you get the neck flat first? You ARE using a fretted note at the 12th fret and not a 12th fret harmonic to set your intonation aren't you?

Re: Advice, mounting HB1 in bridge position

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 3:27 am
by petersland
Yes to all Dane. The strings are 60, 80, 100 and 125 so pretty average.
If you can get the harmonics absolutely perfect with a Ric bridge, you're a better man than I.
Btw, what will the 500k pots give me?
Cheers, Pete

Re: Advice, mounting HB1 in bridge position

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 5:08 am
by ken_j
The 500k pots will give you a brighter tone plus more definition. I felt these were a must for my former 650C until I installed toastized high gains. For a bass I would hvave to try it to see. You can lift the ground (open circuit) from one of the volume pots to give you an idea what it will sound like. The only thing is you would not be able to turn that pickup all the way down with the volume control.

Re: Advice, mounting HB1 in bridge position

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 10:40 pm
by aceonbass
All that needs to be done to get a B string to intonate on a stock 4003 bridge is to shorten and round off the rear of the B string saddle so it travels further rearward. An extra 1/8" of travel can be gained in this manor. I've gotten 4003S5's to intonate with .130 B strings. Using a .022 uFtone cap will also add to the brightness of the pickup, which tends to be a little dark with 330K pots and .047 uF caps.

Re: Advice, mounting HB1 in bridge position

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 11:24 pm
by iiipopes
I split the difference and use a .033 orange drop tone cap, to get a little more upper mid to lower treble presence. My HB1 is an older one that measures out @14kohms dc, and it has a sizeable resonance (measured) at @ 1.3 kHz, on my bass with its particular volume and tone circuits. I believe (it's been a few years since I looked "under the hood") I don't have the full 500kohm pots, but I think I bridged them with a 1 meg resistor to bring them down to a hybrid curve 330kohm control. I agree: the resonance is not high enough to sound good with a .0047 inline cap; it sounds "honky" instead of "jangly" with one to my ears. I agree the 500kohm pots are necessary to bring out as much usable treble as the pickup can produce, but on bass, do you really want all the top end possible? Some do. I'm content with staying in the trenches with a tad bit of natural rolloff.

Re: Advice, mounting HB1 in bridge position

Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 2:01 am
by petersland
aceonbass wrote:All that needs to be done to get a B string to intonate on a stock 4003 bridge is to shorten and round off the rear of the B string saddle so it travels further rearward. An extra 1/8" of travel can be gained in this manor. I've gotten 4003S5's to intonate with .130 B strings. Using a .022 uFtone cap will also add to the brightness of the pickup, which tends to be a little dark with 330K pots and .047 uF caps.
Thanks Dane. Great idea re the shortening of the saddle. I never thought of that.
I used to use a bit of gaffa, folded several times, in between the front of my S5 bridge and the tailpiece to give me better intonation control. It angled back a little ways but hey?

Re: Advice, mounting HB1 in bridge position

Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 1:18 pm
by aceonbass
A .033 tone cap should be fine. On my basses I'm using NOS .027 Ajax blue caps (which actually spec out at .033uF). These are the paper in oil type, which many believe to have the superior tone. On my customers instruments and harnesses I build, I use Cornell-Dublier .047uF & .022uF caps, which are the same ones currently used by Rickenbacker. I prefer them to the Orange Drops that I used to use. They are axial caps, whereas the Orange Drops are radial caps. I find axials easier to work with, and these ones are smaller. As far as the added brightness I get from the different components, it's not a lot, but it helps to impart a bit more of the "Rick tone" that people are used to hearing from these basses. If I want less, I can always roll back the tone, but I couldn't add it if it weren't there. As a side note, until RIC started using 330K tone pots, ALL of the pots I was getting from them were specking out at 170-195K on my multimeter. Way too low for any application requiring 500K.