Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I have had an issue with the G stiring being too close to the edge of the fret board. It was this way when I got it brannd new 11 years ago but did not really notice it till way after the warranty.

it didnt really affect my playing as it was basically at the 1st through the 5th fret that it affected as sometimes the string would slide off the fret.

well, I found a guy that was confident that he could work on Ric's and I felt comfortable with him.

I also needed new strings so a "professional" set up was in order.

I dropped off the bass and to my surprise they actually got a new nut from Ric and slapped it on. The new strings I chose were Rotosound RN66LD swingbass 66. Love the sound of these strings.

the problem I seem to now have is fret buzz on the E and the A strings in the first 5 frets.

I should probably learn to work on it myself but at this point I would rather someone with the right experience take a look at it.

anyone know what I should do to fix the buzz?

anyone know anyone in Upstate NY who they could recommen?

I am in Mid Hudson....Poughkeepsie/Kingston area. The place I had it worked on is in MIddletown 80 miles away. I would like to find someone closer...

thanks

Sounds like the neck have a slight backbow due to readjusting to the new tension. You may easily fix that yourself if you can use a screwdriver without empaling yourself or poking your eyes with it.

All you need is the proper nut driver tool to adjust the tross rods. Pick of the Ricks (no other affiliation other than being a satisfied client) sells some.

It is a 3 minute job to do.

I agree, learn to do these simple adjustments, yourself.

It's well worth learning how to set up your bass yourself, because everyone plays differently and requires a slightly different setup. It's good to take time making small adjustments to neck relief and action until you find the sweet spot where you don't get unwanted fret buzz, the intonation can be set tolerably well, the instrument feels good to play, and resonates well. Sometimes a minute adjustment can make all the difference.

On my 4001 I could have a flat neck with very low action if I just played with my fingers, but because I also play with a pick I need a little relief (bowing) in the neck and just slighly lower than average action to prevent serious buzzing/choking around the 3rd-5th frets on the E string. It seems to resonate better like that too and produces a wonderfully warm bottom end, but it took me quite a bit of tweaking to find the optimum setup for me. I'm sure you'll find lots of help and advice here if you need it...

Colonel Sanders wrote:Sounds like the neck have a slight backbow due to readjusting to the new tension. You may easily fix that yourself if you can use a screwdriver without empaling yourself or poking your eyes with it.

All you need is the proper nut driver tool to adjust the tross rods. Pick of the Ricks (no other affiliation other than being a satisfied client) sells some.

It is a 3 minute job to do.

lol Jeff.....I am a mechanic of sorts and good with hand tools so the chances of me poking myself in the eye with a screwdriver is slim to none lol...hopefully.

actually I have a small ratchet wrench with an extension and socket that fits perfectly in the rod channel.

jps wrote:I agree, learn to do these simple adjustments, yourself.

Hey Jeff,

adjusting the rods and raising/lowering the bridge if needed is not beyond my abilities. I was just concerned that maybe there was more extensive issues after the nut was replaced.

unless switching to different gauge strings, should there be a need to adjust a neck or is it an "always" thing?

the only difference in the gauge of strings I used (Rotosound rn66ld) from the originals is the D and A string. the original gauge is 45W-55W-75W-105W....the Rotosounds are 45-65-80-105

why are the Ric strings different than every other brand out there and whats with the W

I love the sound of the Roto's btw

antonius wrote:It's well worth learning how to set up your bass yourself, because everyone plays differently and requires a slightly different setup. It's good to take time making small adjustments to neck relief and action until you find the sweet spot where you don't get unwanted fret buzz, the intonation can be set tolerably well, the instrument feels good to play, and resonates well. Sometimes a minute adjustment can make all the difference.

On my 4001 I could have a flat neck with very low action if I just played with my fingers, but because I also play with a pick I need a little relief (bowing) in the neck and just slighly lower than average action to prevent serious buzzing/choking around the 3rd-5th frets on the E string. It seems to resonate better like that too and produces a wonderfully warm bottom end, but it took me quite a bit of tweaking to find the optimum setup for me. I'm sure you'll find lots of help and advice here if you need it...

interesting....

I was always a finger player till a few years ago. I found that because of the way I played I needed more relief with fingers than I do with a pick

I'll fidle with it a little today a see what happens

thanks

ricnbacker wrote: lol Jeff.....I am a mechanic of sorts and good with hand tools so the chances of me poking myself in the eye with a screwdriver is slim to none lol...hopefully.

actually I have a small ratchet wrench with an extension and socket that fits perfectly in the rod channel.

Just be careful with the ratchet not to over-torque. Though in your case you will most likely de-torque. I would loosen both nuts by half a turn first then re- torque by 1/8 of a turn just to set the nuts correctly against the plate. Wait for a day for the neck to settle and repeat the process if required.

ricnbacker wrote:

antonius wrote:It's well worth learning how to set up your bass yourself, because everyone plays differently and requires a slightly different setup. It's good to take time making small adjustments to neck relief and action until you find the sweet spot where you don't get unwanted fret buzz, the intonation can be set tolerably well, the instrument feels good to play, and resonates well. Sometimes a minute adjustment can make all the difference.

On my 4001 I could have a flat neck with very low action if I just played with my fingers, but because I also play with a pick I need a little relief (bowing) in the neck and just slighly lower than average action to prevent serious buzzing/choking around the 3rd-5th frets on the E string. It seems to resonate better like that too and produces a wonderfully warm bottom end, but it took me quite a bit of tweaking to find the optimum setup for me. I'm sure you'll find lots of help and advice here if you need it...

interesting....

I was always a finger player till a few years ago. I found that because of the way I played I needed more relief with fingers than I do with a pick

I'll fidle with it a little today a see what happens

thanks

That is exactly my point. Because we all have different techniques and attack the strings in different ways with different amounts of pressure, what works for one player may not work for another. Good luck

I would not get in the habit of using a socket wrench, but a 1/4" nut driver or better yet get one of the screwdriver tools that has replaceable tips, the shaft on those are usually a thin walled 1/4" driver in itself and works great as a truss rod tool. They are usually fairly inexpensive to buy, too. Part of the reason for learning to do this yourself, besides the ability to get the action just right for you is that many (most) necks need seasonal adjustment for temp/humidity changes throughout the year. These adjustments may take a couple of days of tweaking to get just right so taking it to a tech would require multiple trips and $$$ forked over to him/her to do this.

Yup, I concur with my fellow forumites in that it sounds like back bow and if you know the difference between a nut driver and a socket wrench, you should be fine with tinkering with the neck on your 4003. At first i thought of the concept as daunting but it really is easy.

Some of my necks are rock solid all year round but some move a bit with the seasons.

Sepp

Jeff, Sepp

there should be little difference in using a ratchet wrench with a 1/4 socket over a nut driver...if one knows how to use both.

I should have stated originally thats its a miniature ratchet not a 3/8s drive lol

most nut drivers I found did not fit in the opening smoothly. my (miniature) ratchet with extension fits smooth and perfectly in there and I only turn it as much as I would a nut driver. so in my mind theres no difference

Kopfjaeger wrote:Yup, I concur with my fellow forumites in that it sounds like back bow and if you know the difference between a nut driver and a socket wrench, you should be fine with tinkering with the neck on your 4003. At first i thought of the concept as daunting but it really is easy.

Some of my necks are rock solid all year round but some move a bit with the seasons.

Sepp

there is no back bow, I do see a little bow, more than had been there for the last 11 years actually. its usually been flat.

which brings me to another thing I have noticed about my RIC.

if I loosen the rods to give it a little bow, it seems as if the rods are totally loose to the point I can hear them rattle....

anyone ever experience this?

this is why I have never fooled with my bass......seems picky

I normally try to stick with the brand and gauge the bass likes. Luckily, I've been able to switch over all but one bass to my string manufacturer of choice with no major issues. My 4002 I'll keep the RIC strings on it since that it what it likes.

OK, so your bass has a little forward bow to it and the first few frets are buzzing? Did you lighten the gauge of the strings? If the string is sitting lower in the nut perhaps it's just enough to give you a buzz??

As for the tool you use to adjust your truss rods, it really does not matter but you should never be able to apply too much torque to the nuts or bad things will happen. A nut driver is relatively safe since once you start putting some forearm pressure to it, you've reached the maximum amount of pressure you should be exerting on it. Too easy to loose your "feel" with a tool that multiplies force.

Sepp

Kopfjaeger wrote:I normally try to stick with the brand and gauge the bass likes. Luckily, I've been able to switch over all but one bass to my string manufacturer of choice with no major issues. My 4002 I'll keep the RIC strings on it since that it what it likes.

OK, so your bass has a little forward bow to it and the first few frets are buzzing? Did you lighten the gauge of the strings? If the string is sitting lower in the nut perhaps it's just enough to give you a buzz??

As for the tool you use to adjust your truss rods, it really does not matter but you should never be able to apply too much torque to the nuts or bad things will happen. A nut driver is relatively safe since once you start putting some forearm pressure to it, you've reached the maximum amount of pressure you should be exerting on it. Too easy to loose your "feel" with a tool that multiplies force.

Sepp

"Too easy to loose your "feel" with a tool that multiplies force. "

well thats a good point but visually, I stick to the 1/4 turn rule and can feel the tension on the ratchet.

" Did you lighten the gauge of the strings?"

no but the A and D strings are heavier than the original Ric strings

Ric factory strings are 45 55 75 105

I put on Rotosounds 45 65 80 105