Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I've recently adjusted the neck on my new 4003 (manufacture date October 2012), on collecting the bass I always knew it needed some adjustment by doing the usual check, I assumed that it would already have had a basic neck adjustment at the factory so initially I adjusted both of the truss rods by equal amounts. My initial adjustment turned out to be not enough so I adjusted them both further. After this I got some string buzzing on the lower frets on the G string side so obviously I had over-adjusted that truss rod, however on the E string side it still needed even more adjustment to get the neck flat.

I basically had to pretty much revert the one truss rod to where it was initially but the E string side has needed a fair bit more adjustment, in fact I checked it again earlier today and that same truss rod could do with a fraction more adjustment. Does this mean the neck was twisted or is this a common experience? Although Rics have 2 truss rods I always envisaged that an equal amount of adjustment on both truss rods would be all that is needed.

This is my first neck adjustment on a Ric so I would welcome some advice on this!

Check out the "Joey and Jangle" section on this site for set up videos for a 4001 bass. It will give you some insight on the dual truss rod adjustment. Also check out Joey's site http://www.joeysbassnotes.com

Hope this helps.

Keep in mind that the two truss rods are quite close to each other, there really is not a lot of separation between them so it is not like you are really able to adjust only one side of the neck with that side's corresponding truss rod and not have an affect on the other side of the neck.

chrisdski wrote:Check out the "Joey and Jangle" section on this site for set up videos for a 4001 bass. It will give you some insight on the dual truss rod adjustment. Also check out Joey's site http://www.joeysbassnotes.com

Hope this helps.

I have looked at this before, might be worth having another look but I seem to recall this (and other postings) saying that the truss rods should be adjusted equally, although the fact that there are 2 truss rods they must be there to adjust and correct situations such as mine?

I've just been looking at a posting on Talkbass regarding a very similar situation. The guy couldn't get the string clearance on both sides of the neck the same, and ultimately was recommended to leave it alone as a "best setting".

I'm going to continue to try and get it as accurate as possible, but was concerned about the one truss rod needing far more tightening than the other.

IMHO the idea of equal forces of the two rods is completely wrong. We are not talking about a cylinder head. For that it is a must - but it is an uniform metal thing, not wood.

There are different details why this is not the right direction of thinking:

Wood always is a natural grown thing with differences in its structure. THAT IS the reason why two rods provide a better adjustable neck. It is quite logical that in most cases the torque of the rod screws is different. The grain never is parallel, equal and straight. If it were two rods would be adscititious.
At the latest when it comes to the strings there are different tensions. These influence the adjustment in an asynchronous way, too.

Here is my way of adjusting the modern Rickenbacker necks fast, exact, easy and everlasting:

Use a capo at the first fret, push the single strings down (behind the last fret, e.g. where the neck PU is!) and look if there is some space between every single string and the about 7th/ 8th/ 9th fret. Is there more space than the thickness of a business card turn the screw for that side clockwise.
Is the string already touching the middle frets already turn the screw for that side counter-clockwise.

In the end a space (measured with that capo/ push down method) not more than the thickness of a business card provides a nearly dead straight neck without buzzing. Is there still some buzz, the neck is correct but not the bridge. This adjustment includes a slight tolerance for changes in humidity and temperature, too. It is my "happy-go-lucky all-season adjustment". The buzz-free and unchorded space of my 330's low e-string at the 12th fret is 0,067" (1,7mm). - Not bad at all!

BTW: As closer it comes to the final, perfect setting, the less the screws should be moved. - Logic.

Notice: For the final result of an adjustment You have to wait 24 hours. - The necks are thin but very substantial.
Never turn the screws more than 1/4 per day. Follow the directions of the manual.

After about one year my advice is to give the instrument to a luthier for a fret job. Again: it is wood, after about this time the wood had ended its set in period.

All this is quite easy! No fear.

Baker69 wrote:I have looked at this before, might be worth having another look but I seem to recall this (and other postings) saying that the truss rods should be adjusted equally, although the fact that there are 2 truss rods they must be there to adjust and correct situations such as mine?

No, a 4001, early 4003 or any other Rickenbacker with with the old truss rod system, needs both truss rod adjustment nuts snugged up fully after the neck has been held in position.
Any Rickenbacker model, including the 4003 with the new style truss rods should have each rod adjusted as necessary. Like Jeff already mentioned in an earlier post, each rod adjustment can influence the other. So it can take two or three days to get the perfect set up.

jps wrote:Keep in mind that the two truss rods are quite close to each other, there really is not a lot of separation between them so it is not like you are really able to adjust only one side of the neck with that side's corresponding truss rod and not have an affect on the other side of the neck.

+1

Heed this man's advice.

In my experience with the new rod style basses, the treble side is barely snugged up, whereas the bass side rod always needs to be tightened more to flatten the setup. String tensions come into play too.

Hi johnallg,

I think what you are saying has confirmed my findings, I.e. I have had to loosen the treble side to what it was factory set at (which didn't have much tension on as I checked first) and the bass side has required a lot more tension.

Baker69 wrote:Hi johnallg,

I think what you are saying has confirmed my findings, I.e. I have had to loosen the treble side to what it was factory set at (which didn't have much tension on as I checked first) and the bass side has required a lot more tension.

I do not believe this is due to any twisting of the necks, but a result of the less tension on the treble side and the inherent rigidity of the Rick neck design. On one bass, the treble rod is just finger tight so the rod won't rattle. I may have my understanding all wrong, and if so I'd highly welcome any clarifying info, but it makes sense to me. Glad you're getting it sorted out.

Baker69 wrote:Hi johnallg,

I think what you are saying has confirmed my findings, I.e. I have had to loosen the treble side to what it was factory set at (which didn't have much tension on as I checked first) and the bass side has required a lot more tension.

You could have a different finding on another Rick. The required tension in each truss will be a factor of string gage and the piece(s) of wood that was used for the neck. Some of my Ricks require equal tension, some more on the treble side, some more on the bass side. I would probably guess that the more tension on the bass side would be the more frequent situation.

Colonel Sanders wrote:I would probably guess that the more tension on the bass side would be the more frequent situation.

I'm thinking that would depend entirely on the strings. If the bass strings are higher tension, you'd need more tension on the truss rod to compensate. I they're lower, less tension. If you have a perfectly balanced set, then it would be all down to the wood itself, which can never be perfect...

Most string sets have the least tension on the biggest gauge strings, FYI.

A tight rod and a loose rod can just be a case of one rod doing all the work. As was mentioned these don't necessarily act independent of each other.

After giving the bass a couple of days for the neck to settle I checked it again today and it needed just a fraction more tightening, so assuming the neck is happy to stay where it is that should be it. On the G string I can get a single sheet of paper between the string and the 9th fret and on the E string 2 x paper thicknesses which is the best I think I'm going to get it as any more adjustment on that truss rod and it's starting to affect the G string side.

I altered the string height the other day as well and have got it as low as I like without fret buzz, intonation was spot on so no adjustment needed there. I also dropped the bridge pickup height a tadge as well as I had lowered the strings (which were fairly high initially).

All that's left now is to remove the pickup cover and fit a bezel, I do love the look of it with the cover on but my favourite playing position is just a fraction behind the pickup.

One niggling problem is that I'm worried that in adjusting the neck I may have unleashed a dead spot on the neck, I've been playing the bass this evening and on the D string the C, B and B flat seem to decay very quickly, I don't recall it being like that before, is it possible for this to have happened?

Baker69 wrote:After giving the bass a couple of days for the neck to settle I checked it again today and it needed just a fraction more tightening, so assuming the neck is happy to stay where it is that should be it. On the G string I can get a single sheet of paper between the string and the 9th fret and on the E string 2 x paper thicknesses which is the best I think I'm going to get it as any more adjustment on that truss rod and it's starting to affect the G string side.

I altered the string height the other day as well and have got it as low as I like without fret buzz, intonation was spot on so no adjustment needed there. I also dropped the bridge pickup height a tadge as well as I had lowered the strings (which were fairly high initially).

All that's left now is to remove the pickup cover and fit a bezel, I do love the look of it with the cover on but my favourite playing position is just a fraction behind the pickup.

One niggling problem is that I'm worried that in adjusting the neck I may have unleashed a dead spot on the neck, I've been playing the bass this evening and on the D string the C, B and B flat seem to decay very quickly, I don't recall it being like that before, is it possible for this to have happened?

Yes. Try either tightening or loosening the treble rod just the tiniest bit. Or the bass side, again just a bit.