Hi all, this is my first post here. I own a 1978 4001 fireglo bass and I have owned a 2000+ Montezuma Brown 330 6 that I had to sell to pay rent during a dire time. Things are turning around and I want to save up for a 330 12(!!). I want to start doing some research into what years after 1980 I should be looking for and what years, if any, I should stay away from.
There are also some questions I have on finish.
I'm not a huge maple glo fan but have seen a pic of a butterscotchy, mapley looking guitar with a black pick guard. I really like this finish but I've only seem it once on eBay. Was it a regular option/special edition for a while? My favorite finish is a nice fire glo but some of the finishes on this color are sort of weak. Some have a stark and harsh transition in the blending from one shade to the next (I usually see these in later models) and some have a beautifully more subtle blending from a dark red to an almost gold yellow (seems more prevalent on 60s models. Any info here would be appreciated.
Ultimately if there were years where the build quality were particular either strong or weak is what I really want to know. Thanks so much!
Saving for a 330 12 string - best model years to consider?
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gollygeeswell
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Re: Saving for a 330 12 string - best model years to conside
What kind of neck do you like, skinny or baseball bat?
The older you go, the more ambered the mapleglo or fireglo will appear. If you get a 330 with white/chrome trim, you can change all the parts out for black. Although MG/BT's are not that hard to find, especially in the 80's era, which have nice thin necks like I like, and should be ambered enough for your taste.
The mid 90's to late 00's tend to have thick necks IIRC.
The older you go, the more ambered the mapleglo or fireglo will appear. If you get a 330 with white/chrome trim, you can change all the parts out for black. Although MG/BT's are not that hard to find, especially in the 80's era, which have nice thin necks like I like, and should be ambered enough for your taste.
The mid 90's to late 00's tend to have thick necks IIRC.
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gollygeeswell
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Re: Saving for a 330 12 string - best model years to conside
I had a 330 from the early 2000's. I liked the way it felt. Didn't feel baseball neck-y to me. (Some Les Pauls have that feel to me).
The main thing I want to know really is are there years after 1980 that should be avoided due to quality issues, are the years or periods that should be sought after for their high quality.
Thanks so much!
The main thing I want to know really is are there years after 1980 that should be avoided due to quality issues, are the years or periods that should be sought after for their high quality.
Thanks so much!
Re: Saving for a 330 12 string - best model years to conside
Josh,
There's rarely any actual "quality" issues from any year (we're talking in general), but there are more spec differences that can vary throughout the years. Do you like the large or small headstock? 24 frets or 21? Hi Gains or Toasters? Full width inlays or short poured inlays? Small neck or big neck? X-bracing or modern bracing? Pointy body horns or slightly rounded? Kluson tuners or Schaller?
I think you really can't go wrong with any year, but IMO - the best buys are either the brand new 330/12 models or early 1980s (1978-1984). These early 80s models have many of the great features that classic vintage Ricks have (x-bracing, Klusons, smaller necks) without the high price tag. The brand new models have some of the best paintwork i've ever seen from Rickenbacker and fit/finish is better than ever, now in the CNC-era.
There's rarely any actual "quality" issues from any year (we're talking in general), but there are more spec differences that can vary throughout the years. Do you like the large or small headstock? 24 frets or 21? Hi Gains or Toasters? Full width inlays or short poured inlays? Small neck or big neck? X-bracing or modern bracing? Pointy body horns or slightly rounded? Kluson tuners or Schaller?
I think you really can't go wrong with any year, but IMO - the best buys are either the brand new 330/12 models or early 1980s (1978-1984). These early 80s models have many of the great features that classic vintage Ricks have (x-bracing, Klusons, smaller necks) without the high price tag. The brand new models have some of the best paintwork i've ever seen from Rickenbacker and fit/finish is better than ever, now in the CNC-era.
Re: Saving for a 330 12 string - best model years to conside
You may well have seen my 1986 330/6 Maple Glo with black trim on eBay recently (item 111012003721).
25+ years of the wood aging left a stunning, natural-looking finish highlighted by the black trim.
It was a terrific guitar in every respect. At that age, pretty much any component that might have twisted, broken or bent would have done so, but everything was as straight as a ruler, and a real pleasure to play.
The black trim was a standard option, and is certainly not rare on MG guitars. The only caveat is the black R tailpiece especially when used on the 12-string models. Mine was fine, but some have developed cracks because the powder-coating process leaves the metal a little more brittle than the chrome. AFAIK, black tailpieces are no longer available. The original bridge was chrome, but a little strip of black electrical tape over the top fixed that little anomally.
Sorry I had to let it go, but on to other things...
25+ years of the wood aging left a stunning, natural-looking finish highlighted by the black trim.
It was a terrific guitar in every respect. At that age, pretty much any component that might have twisted, broken or bent would have done so, but everything was as straight as a ruler, and a real pleasure to play.
The black trim was a standard option, and is certainly not rare on MG guitars. The only caveat is the black R tailpiece especially when used on the 12-string models. Mine was fine, but some have developed cracks because the powder-coating process leaves the metal a little more brittle than the chrome. AFAIK, black tailpieces are no longer available. The original bridge was chrome, but a little strip of black electrical tape over the top fixed that little anomally.
Sorry I had to let it go, but on to other things...
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gollygeeswell
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Re: Saving for a 330 12 string - best model years to conside
Beautiful guitar. I love the MG with the black trim. Thanks everybody for chiming inbuchrob wrote:You may well have seen my 1986 330/6 Maple Glo with black trim on eBay recently (item 111012003721).
25+ years of the wood aging left a stunning, natural-looking finish highlighted by the black trim.
I was in a Sam Ash a few days ago. They have a few Rickenbackers there and I have to say I really think the finish on them has gotten strange at best.
They're looking more Pink-glow than Fire-glo. I see this more and more and am really put off by it.
are there years that are more red than pink? Are my eyes deceiving me?
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paologregorio
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Re: Saving for a 330 12 string - best model years to conside
Just buy a new one.
There is no reason to ever be bored.
...why yes, I suppose I do have a double bound guitar fetish...
"Uh, I like the double bounds. . . ."
...why yes, I suppose I do have a double bound guitar fetish...
"Uh, I like the double bounds. . . ."
Re: Saving for a 330 12 string - best model years to conside
As far as I have seen, the pinkish Fireglos (or Watermelonglo, as I like to call them) mainly date from the late '70s to mid '80s.
As for your original question, there are two points I think you should consider. The type of truss rod RIC uses changed circa 1985. Both designs work fine, but they function differently so you should be aware of what type truss rod a guitar has before any adjustments are made. The second point relates to the first; Rickenbackers have some unique features (such as the old style truss rod), in their designs, that many guitar repairmen don't seem to either be aware of or fail to grasp. So for that reason, It's always best to thoroughly check over any used Ric you're thinking about buying. Just to make sure some clueless tech didn't "fix" it.
As for your original question, there are two points I think you should consider. The type of truss rod RIC uses changed circa 1985. Both designs work fine, but they function differently so you should be aware of what type truss rod a guitar has before any adjustments are made. The second point relates to the first; Rickenbackers have some unique features (such as the old style truss rod), in their designs, that many guitar repairmen don't seem to either be aware of or fail to grasp. So for that reason, It's always best to thoroughly check over any used Ric you're thinking about buying. Just to make sure some clueless tech didn't "fix" it.
Jangle, Chime & Twang.