Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Hi forum, does anyone have any release date info about the Rickenbacker redesigned bass bridge, or is this a myth? Unless someone has info, I'll just keep assuming it's an urban legend! Secondly, I understand the redesigned Hipshot bridge has eliminated the saddle wobble problem of earlier models, can anyone confirm or refute this? Finally, has anyone ever tried to make an improved saddle unit that would fit onto a stock tailpiece? Something that's easier to adjust, maybe with slightly longer saddle screws. A mastery bridge type thing that would fit onto the existing tailpiece to retain that classic look? Thanks for reading, would love to get a good discussion going on this!

Good questions. Haven't heard anything for years about a redesigned Ric bridge. My 2010 4003FL has a bit of tail lift, which bothered me until I tried the Hipshot. Has Hipshot actually updated it's version? If Rickenbacker had success with an aluminum version in the past, why not offer that again? I don't really care anymore, and just have a heckuva good time playing the bass.

The last I've heard about the redesigned bridge was John mentioning it back in 2007 when the Hipshot patent fiasco was going on.

Seriously, a retooled bridge would pretty much solve the last of the problems with these basses, IMO.

Haven't heard anything about a RIC tailpiece or bridge assembly. I have never used the Hipshot, but I have heard complaints about those too.

On the existing 4003 type, I have cut all the springs to less than half their original length to gain more saddle travel, (some folks replace with surgical tubing). I have also reversed my E and A saddles to gain adjustment travel, and replaced the philips head 4/40 x .725 adjustment screws with flathead Hex. My preferred guage is .045/.065/ .080/.100. The screws can be obtained from Jeff (milo) here at the RRF.

The FX HX black screws use a 1/16 Allen screw driver, and one is also able gain an angle to the screw when using the hex driver. I typically leave the bridge in place, and just lift the string off the saddle to facilitate, for and aft movement as needed, depending on whether the string is flat or sharp, respectively. Intonation can be dailed in somewhat quickly and precisely (I use a Peterson 490, and 12th fret harmonic / 12th fret fretted for this) when replacing strings.

Cheers,
Bob

Captain Bob wrote: I have also reversed my E and A saddles to gain adjustment travel

Bob - the strings are NOT central over the saddles, so by reversing the E and A, you'll get the string spacing slightly out of kilter ( not that it really makes much difference).

My 88 4003, built from a carcass, actually has a 2008 left-hand bridge, and I've effectively flipped all 4 saddles to make it right handed, and the spacing is wider than intended. I actually have a spare set of un-cut new saddes, and just haven't got round to putting them on, as the bass is eminently playable as it is!

Now if anybody needs a set of 2008 left hand saddles, and wants to swap for a set of RH saddles, it'll save me the job of filing the new ones!