Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

i recently purchased a type two lightshow (bayonet bulbs) and one of the bulbs burned out. Does anyone have a source for replacements? I'm having a hard time finding the correct size and voltage.
Thanks in advance!

Start here:

viewtopic.php?f=105&t=378644

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=380921

Is it possible to do a complete LED conversion on the guitar? Or do you want to keep it as original as possible? I think the LED conversion would eliminate the heating problem that affected the original guitars. I also think that would eliminate the multipin connector box for the power to the lights. Just guessing of course.

vjf1968 wrote:Is it possible to do a complete LED conversion on the guitar? Or do you want to keep it as original as possible? I think the LED conversion would eliminate the heating problem that affected the original guitars. I also think that would eliminate the multipin connector box for the power to the lights. Just guessing of course.

You know what LEDs eliminate? All the damn character in the whole guitar.

Have you played one of the originals? Sad to say it, but most of the people who talk about the "heating issues" from these guitars have never actually held or played one. If they did, it would be obvious that the issue isn't really that bad and that LED conversions have no character compared to the originals.

I've had/have both! The original incandescent bulbs win every time, no question.


Now - onto the OP's question, get the bulbs here (look for "1895 ba9s bayonet base bulb") : http://www.autolumination.com/trainbulbs.htm

collin wrote:

vjf1968 wrote:Is it possible to do a complete LED conversion on the guitar? Or do you want to keep it as original as possible? I think the LED conversion would eliminate the heating problem that affected the original guitars. I also think that would eliminate the multipin connector box for the power to the lights. Just guessing of course.

You know what LEDs eliminate? All the damn character in the whole guitar.

Have you played one of the originals? Sad to say it, but most of the people who talk about the "heating issues" from these guitars have never actually held or played one. If they did, it would be obvious that the issue isn't really that bad and that LED conversions have no character compared to the originals.

I've had/have both! The original incandescent bulbs win every time, no question.


Now - onto the OP's question, get the bulbs here (look for "1895 ba9s bayonet base bulb") : http://www.autolumination.com/trainbulbs.htm

Just asking. By I have read that the earlier light show guitars did heat up due to the bulbs.

The bulbs actually don't get that hot - it's a metal plate that they SCRs are mounted to that gets hot and it's actually on the backside of the guitar. Type I models get hotter than Type II but neither get truly hot enough to burn anything.

I blame Richard Smith for this Lightshow tall tale.

collin wrote:Now - onto the OP's question, get the bulbs here (look for "1895 ba9s bayonet base bulb") : http://www.autolumination.com/trainbulbs.htm

That's the place! It's been forever since I ordered them. Similar eBay searches may broaden your options.

Last time I ordered some (from either these folks or someone else), I got purple and other weird colors, thinking I would mix them up sometime, but I haven't changed them in a while.

By the way, for everyday use, I recommend using blue, red and green (as opposed to amber). There is some groovy scientific reason why this is more effective or aesthetically pleasing to the human eye, for which I defer to JH or PW or someone else equally brainy.

collin wrote:I blame Richard Smith for this Lightshow tall tale.

The thing is this:

The 331 is awesome and lots of fun. But it is best used for a song or maybe two. If you use it for a full set, with the lights full blast, then you must be an attention hog. Also it's more effective as a quick thing, to make people go "what was that?"

And in using the 331 this way, yes, the heat sink plate gets a little warm, but never enough to be uncomfortable. (But definitely enough the heat up the glue used and split the back, as lots of Lightshows suffer this.)

Your mileage may vary, especially with Type I models, with which I am less familiar.

Also, if you need connectors for the power supply box, check this out:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=37508&start=15

vjf1968 wrote:......I think the LED conversion would eliminate the heating problem that affected the original guitars........

Wow.... That Guitar is Smokin !!

Hi -
Thank you for the information on the replacement bulbs. My only issue now is what the correct voltage should be. In the Forums, I've seen 12V, 18V and 24V mentioned. Is there any consensus, or should I purchase some of each and see what works?

18v, if I'm not mistaken. Minutaglio?

Yep 18v

kennyhowes wrote:
By the way, for everyday use, I recommend using blue, red and green (as opposed to amber). There is some groovy scientific reason why this is more effective or aesthetically pleasing to the human eye, for which I defer to JH or PW or someone else equally brainy.

For starters, that's exactly what these guitars were originally equipped with (the Type II models, anyways).

Secondly (and this is a fun fact) - if you were to direct a beam of green, red and blue light at the same spot, it would appear as a white beam of light. So there is a physical reason why these colors are complimentary.

collin wrote:...if you were to direct a beam of green, red and blue light at the same spot, it would appear as a white beam of light. So there is a physical reason why these colors are complimentary.

See? Like that.

And putting red and green together makes yellow, so no need for yellow at all...