Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Hi All,

In my continuing effort to make my 4001 play like I believe it can, I came across an interesting discovery. The nut end of the neck is higher than the heel end by about 5/32" when lying flat on a table.

The fretboard is perfectly straight and the Bass is tuned. Is this a natural thing that happens over time? It's the reason that I can't get good action as the strings are high off the fretboard. I have the bridge screwed all the way

down. I use 45/105 string sets. Is there any cure for this?





Thanks Dan A

It can happen with old 4001's. There's a weak area where the neck joins the body wings, near the too-generous front pickup route, so the neck pitches forward at that point, even if the truss rods still keep the fretboard straight. Some have had success with wedging a wood block into the huge pickup route, then carefully taking out only the necessary amount of wood for the pickup to fit. Another cure involves sinking the tailpiece into the body about a quarter inch. And in any case, switch to .040 Thomastik-Infeld Jazz Flats or Jazz Rounds. They are very low tension strings, and the flats are the closest strings to the OEM Maxima-made Ric strings that these necks were designed for.

Mark Arnquist or Paul W can fix you up.

This is an all too common problem with old 4001's. Sinking the tailpiece into the body is the WRONG move, and is irreversible. Gutar techs that come up with this solution are not thinking outside the box, and need to aquire some rudimentary wood working skills. The neck needs to be bent back into place while a maple block is fitted to the entire oversized route. It needs to be a very tight fit lengthwise, and a slip fit on the sides. There are also a couple mods that can be done to the bridge and saddles that can get the action down about 3/32".

I bet Dane could do it too. He's the best when it comes to making Rics better.

My 1976 4001 also had this problem (despite the fact that it was purchased direct from Paul W...) but is now fixed by my own luthier, having successfully inserted a maple block into the neck pup cavity. However, the problem doesn't only occur with old 4001s - I have the same issue with my 1999 V63, which is just about to get the same treatment.

Ash

Thanks for all the input. I'm a decent woodworker...I spent many years building flying replicas of WWI aircraft, Mostly just wood and canvas.

I'll have to find another bass before I attempt the fix as I play a few times a week.

I also wanted to note that the tension on the G side rod is almost nil but the E side is very tight in order for the neck to be straight. Is this normal?

Thanks

Dan

Hawkins7 wrote:I also wanted to note that the tension on the G side rod is almost nil but the E side is very tight in order for the neck to be straight. Is this normal?

Thanks

Dan

That's why there are 2 truss rods.

Hawkins7 wrote: I also wanted to note that the tension on the G side rod is almost nil but the E side is very tight in order for the neck to be straight. Is this normal?

That's pretty much how my 1975 4001 is. It sounds and plays ok, so I don't worry about it at all.

I pulled off the pick guard to take a look inside. That is an unusually large cavity for the pickup. Do they use this same cut for the 4003S models?
I have some hard Maple that I can cut to fit but there has to be slots cut for the truss rods to be removed and a slot must be cut for the pup poles to sit in.
I'm sure this makes no sense to anyone who has never looked inside their Rick. I would be interested to see how others have done this mod.

Thanks

Dan A

Hawkins7 wrote:I pulled off the pick guard to take a look inside. That is an unusually large cavity for the pickup. Do they use this same cut for the 4003S models?
I have some hard Maple that I can cut to fit but there has to be slots cut for the truss rods to be removed and a slot must be cut for the pup poles to sit in.
I'm sure this makes no sense to anyone who has never looked inside their Rick. I would be interested to see how others have done this mod.

Thanks

Dan A

I have no idea what the new 4003S is like but a while ago I came across this about an 4003S/8 that you might find constructive to your needs.

http://www.hillscloud.com/2013/02/1995- ... al-repair/

jps wrote:

Hawkins7 wrote:I pulled off the pick guard to take a look inside. That is an unusually large cavity for the pickup. Do they use this same cut for the 4003S models?
I have some hard Maple that I can cut to fit but there has to be slots cut for the truss rods to be removed and a slot must be cut for the pup poles to sit in.
I'm sure this makes no sense to anyone who has never looked inside their Rick. I would be interested to see how others have done this mod.

Thanks

Dan A

I have no idea what the new 4003S is like but a while ago I came across this about an 4003S/8 that you might find constructive to your needs.

http://www.hillscloud.com/2013/02/1995- ... al-repair/

For what it's worth, that mod worked out well on my s8.

I was a little worried about whether the shortcut approach to reattaching the wings (injecting thin CA glue) would hold up, but it has been about two years now and it's still going strong.

Hopefully you can implement the mod before the wings crack away from the neck, and save some grief.

Thanks for all the info guys.

I think I'll try one last thing before surgery. I normally use GHS Progressives 45-65-85-105. I think I'll try a lighter set and see what happens.
I bought the Bass used from a very well known Rick dealer and there was several problems that were not advertised. The bridge had a 1/8in. lift at the tail. and a 105 set of strings. I have
no idea how long the bass was stored that way but the condition of the gtr was mint when I opened the case. It's a 2009 4001C64. I think the original owner knew he had a lemon and traded it back.
The price was VERY reasonable which should have been a Red Light. It was just so beautiful I didn't want to send it back and figured there must be a way adjust it right.

If I can't get the action and playability right, I guess I'll just have to take the loss. This is the first 4001 that I've owned. I played a 4003 back in the 70s with no problems at all.

Thanks again!

Dan A

Hawkins7 wrote:I played a 4003 back in the 70s with no problems at all.

Thanks again!

Dan A

We'd all love to see photos of that '70s 4003!

Dan, for the tail lift look at the link Scott provided. There are two screws you van add to the tail piece to pull it back down. My s5 has them as well..... no big deal with look or feel. Good luck with it and post some shots of what you end up doing.