Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I have a 1966 RIC 12 360. It has had a Les Paul type bridge rigged on it since I bought it 30 years ago. I want to replace the bridge with a new 12 saddle bridge and baseplate. Where is the best place to buy them? I want the best possible parts as possible. Thanks!

You might try Pick of the Ricks in Lindenwold, NJ.

I have a spare 12-saddle that was never installed. However, the only base plate I have is a black one. If somebody wants them, I'd do $125 for both plus whatever it costs to mail them.

Thanks teb! I'll let ya know ASAP. I found an incredible luthier today that just blew my mind with his knowledge of RIC guitar repair. I'm going to run things past him before I replace the bridge. Right now my 12 string is in tune up the neck for some insane reason. I would prefer the silver base plate. Is it true that older bridges or old bases do not fit properly with newer bases and newer bridges? In other words, a new 12 saddle bridge has to be placed on a new base plate?

DavyR wrote:. Is it true that older bridges or old bases do not fit properly with newer bases and newer bridges? In other words, a new 12 saddle bridge has to be placed on a new base plate?

That is correct.

The vintage (pre-84?) models had a wider "footprint" than the modern type, so you'll need both.

Not to deter you, but I've had 12-saddle bridges on a vintage Rickenbacker and wasn't thrilled with the result. Bear in mind that a vintage Rick has a very curved fretboard radius (7.25") compared to a modern board (10") so the 12-saddle bridge would need to be set up accordingly. What you gain in intonation (which is debatable..) you lose in playability without lots of setup work.

collin wrote:

DavyR wrote:. Is it true that older bridges or old bases do not fit properly with newer bases and newer bridges? In other words, a new 12 saddle bridge has to be placed on a new base plate?

That is correct.

The vintage (pre-84?) models had a wider "footprint" than the modern type, so you'll need both.

Not to deter you, but I've had 12-saddle bridges on a vintage Rickenbacker and wasn't thrilled with the result. Bear in mind that a vintage Rick has a very curved fretboard radius (7.25") compared to a modern board (10") so the 12-saddle bridge would need to be set up accordingly. What you gain in intonation (which is debatable..) you lose in playability without lots of setup work.

Wow! I did not know that there was a radius difference between a vintage and a newer RIC 12 AND that these 12-saddle replacements are made for the radius of newer RIC 12 string guitars.

So, why is the intonation gain debatable when a new 12-saddle is added to a newer RIC 12?

And, how is a new 12-saddle bridge possibly going to play well on a vintage RIC 12? How could it be set up correctly?

Thanks!

David, I was just about to point you toward the BGC thread about this...then realized that you started that thread (recognized your avatar!).

Looks like you have all the info needed there. A 12-saddle bridge can work/sound great on a vintage Rick, but it requires some labor to get it dialed-in just right. Then again, nearly any mod to a guitar requires some level of setup and adjustment.

Let us know how it works out, if you proceed.

Thanks, mate! The BGC thread procedure is out of my league. I found a really good luthier here who I'll have do the work, if I replace it. I'll have to pass that thread on to him. Gee, I thought I'd be able to just drop it in place, cut the grooves and do a basic setup on it.

I bet you'd be happy - and intonation problems would diminish - with a set of TI flats on it.

kennyhowes wrote:I bet you'd be happy - and intonation problems would diminish - with a set of TI flats on it.

+1. Matching the core diameters of the unison wound strings compared to the octave plain strings is why certain sets will intonate well on a 12-string, 6-saddle bridge, and not others. The two commercially available sets with wound 3rd G-strings do this: the factory set, and the POTR custom T-I set.

I have found only on the low E string can it get problematic. So on my 360-12WB FG ckbd I ordered a spare bridge saddle and custom filed it offset so the unison intonates off the back edge, and the octave string, because it is also wound, but with a smaller core diameter, and therefore less string stretch, and therefore less compensation needed, so I filed the saddle so the octave string intonates off the front edge of the saddle.

The POTR compressed 12 string sets are identical to the compressed 12 string sets that RIC stopped selling, IMO. What does T-I have to do with these POTR sets?

Oh, you mean the TI set of flats that POTR carries? That would make 3 sets, for the POTR compressed sets have a wound G..

If TI's aren't in your budget, Jason Mendelson (different person with same name, honestly!) at guitarstringsonline.com makes up a custom RRF 12er set. I also use Curt Mangan 12er sets from POTR sometimes. In fact, with all the switching around I do I rarely throw "expensive" strings on my guitars anymore. Although I do really enjoy the TI flats when I do.

DavyR wrote:Oh, you mean the TI set of flats that POTR carries? That would make 3 sets, for the POTR compressed sets have a wound G..

Thanks. I had forgotten that POTR still sells the compressed wound. Yes, that would make three sets.

I like everything just a little lighter, so I custom-assemble my set from D'Addario singles (yes, they make the 1/2 gauges as standard stock items.)

9, 11 ½, 18w, 24w, 32w, 42w
9, 11 ½, 8, 10 ½, 14, 22w

This set intonates well on my 6-saddle bridge.