Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I'm considering modding an '88 4003 with neck issues, and will most likely install a toothless board. Anyone know the thickness of the f-board?

TIA!

The fretboard is 3/8" thick at the thickest point in the middle with a 10" radius.

Thanks Dane!

aceonbass wrote:The fretboard is 3/8" thick at the thickest point in the middle with a 10" radius.

Are they different thicknesses across the length of the board? I never noticed.

Rhys, I hope you're kidding. Thickest in the middle (longitudinally - from edge to edge) because of the radius.

Old Chinese proverb: One man's thickness is another man's width.

As I mentally prepare for this fretless mod, I have stumbled upon Ted Staberow's "Anatomy of a Rickenbacker". I have just finished reading parts 1-4.....this is a good read and should be suggested to ALL the new RIC converts; it certainly opened my eyes. Although I have a very nice chunk of bubinga sitting on my rack, I'm considering using Bloodwood, because of its color, hardness / density and "bell like" tap tone.

bassduke49 wrote:Rhys, I hope you're kidding. Thickest in the middle (longitudinally - from edge to edge) because of the radius.

I know fingerboards are radiused. I guess I'm a moron because when I read Dane's comment I got the impression that he was saying that along the length of the board (not side-to-side) there was a difference, but I see now that thickness at the radial apex is clearly what he was referring to.

Since we're on the topic, there are many unradiused (flat) fretless fingerboards out there. I hate how they feel though.

Anyone know the size of the fingerboard dots? Are they positioned on the board like a fretted fb; between the frets, or are they located where the fret would be?

I can't answer the size question, but they are located just like a fretted bass just without the frets.

Hi Stephen

My 1982 4001FL has the fingerboard dots positioned where you'd expect them to be located on a fretted bass, as Jeff has confirmed, whilst also having side position dots along the neck that correspond with where the actual frets would be on a fretted bass. Size of the main dots is ¼" (6.35mm).
As you're replacing a fretted board with a fretless one, something you may wish to consider is leaving the clear coat off of the board and just have the natural bubinga (or bloodwood, whichever you decide upon). I did this with mine two years ago, mainly arising as a result of some work I needed to have done on the fingerboard, and my luthier offered me the choice of leaving the natural wood finish or replacing the clear coat. I opted for the former, and am very pleased with the result - not only does the board look better (no more white, streaky glue marks in the grain) but it's noticeably improved the fretless tone - it's warmer, with a little more "swell" to notes. I keep the board oiled and give it a proper clean after gigs to preserve it.

See "before" and "after" shots (apologies that the second one is a little out of focus):
Ash

Thanks for the input Gents. I am leaning towards NOT coating the fb with a clear coat.....I do favor the sound of wood. Not sure if I'll position the FB dots right on the note or in between where the frets would be. As for the side dots, 3rd, 5th and 12th fret positions is all I need.

Ash,

What type of oil do you use on the fingerboard, and how often do you apply it?

Thanks!

NW

Hi Nathan

Between gigs, just lemon oil, but during my monthly check and maintenance sessions on all of my basses, I use Dunlop 01 cleaner & Prep, followed by Dunlop 02 Deep Conditioner. On the bodies, I use ScratchX to deal with any minor scratches, followed by Zymol to bring up the deep lustre and shine to the finish.

Note that neither of the Dunlop products should be used on maple fingerboards, so if you have one of those new-fangled Walnut 4003's, choose something else! Not a problem for me as my Rick boards are all either Bubinga or Ebony, and the Dunlop oils, which I've been using for a number of years now, bring both up a treat!

Ash

Very useful info!