Safe soldering
Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 2:53 pm
I understand that lead solder is still available in many places, though RIC does not use it. As I have a problem that seems to be from cold solder joints (for what feels like the hundredth time), I have some questions for the forum's many soldering experts before attempting repair. I'm fairly certain my rosin-core solder, purchased from RadioShack 5 years ago, contains some lead as there is no mention of it being "lead-free".
1. Is leaded solder safe, or just relatively unregulated for public sale? I know it is an environmental pollutant when improperly disposed of. What I am not sure of is the fumes. I have read that at normal soldering temperatures, the fumes contain no lead. At higher temps, lead enters the fumes. Again, so the internet says. I don't understand why RIC won't use it but RadioShack (etc.) still sell it. Maybe the California location, or perhaps (admirably) a desire to prevent further lead deposition into the environment...
2. Following up on the last question, is it best to work in a well-ventilated area when soldering? I imagine there are no cheap forms of respiratory protection. Many, which are inappropriate, actually worsen inhalation exposures to some toxicants, so I won't be taking any risks with this.
3. What is the best lead-free solder? Even if solder fumes are "safe", I'd rather not further contribute to heavy metals entering into the environment even if it's just a tiny bit.
4. Why is it that every time I go manipulating my wiring harness I lose signal from the instrument and have to hunt down a cold joint? Especially whenever I remove the pickguard with the harness installed so I can wipe away dust underneath or do some other work, and leave the harness installed. Should I always take the nuts off and let the pots rest in the harness cavity instead of leaving them attached?
1. Is leaded solder safe, or just relatively unregulated for public sale? I know it is an environmental pollutant when improperly disposed of. What I am not sure of is the fumes. I have read that at normal soldering temperatures, the fumes contain no lead. At higher temps, lead enters the fumes. Again, so the internet says. I don't understand why RIC won't use it but RadioShack (etc.) still sell it. Maybe the California location, or perhaps (admirably) a desire to prevent further lead deposition into the environment...
2. Following up on the last question, is it best to work in a well-ventilated area when soldering? I imagine there are no cheap forms of respiratory protection. Many, which are inappropriate, actually worsen inhalation exposures to some toxicants, so I won't be taking any risks with this.
3. What is the best lead-free solder? Even if solder fumes are "safe", I'd rather not further contribute to heavy metals entering into the environment even if it's just a tiny bit.
4. Why is it that every time I go manipulating my wiring harness I lose signal from the instrument and have to hunt down a cold joint? Especially whenever I remove the pickguard with the harness installed so I can wipe away dust underneath or do some other work, and leave the harness installed. Should I always take the nuts off and let the pots rest in the harness cavity instead of leaving them attached?