Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I finally got a 381, and very quickly discovered I can't get the action as low as my other Rics. Thinking about going up to 11 gauge strings to see if I can move them closer to the fretboard.

Thoughts? 11's on a Gretsch feels completely natural, but a Ric is not a Gretsch.

If it has the same gauge as factory, that's a .010 set. .011 is a heavier set, which will give you the opposite effect, and raise the action even more.

Have you adjusted the truss rod, etc.?

I removed the 10s it came with and put on a new set of 10s. Then I started dropping the action to match my other Rics. Then the fret buzz started...

Yes, the 11s by themselves would initially raise the action -- but they're higher tension strings, so you should be able to then drop the bridge quite a bit. Every guitar I've played with 11s has super low action, including my Gretsches.

I haven't adjusted the truss rod YET. Might have to seek out a tool for that.

still wrote: Every guitar I've played with 11s has super low action, including my Gretsches.

I haven't adjusted the truss rod YET. Might have to seek out a tool for that.

As the kids like to say on the interwebz, correlation is not causation.

Truss rods are definitely your first stop along the road to bliss. It doesn't sound like 11's will help you. You need a whole setup.

jdogric12 wrote:

still wrote:Truss rods are definitely your first stop along the road to bliss

This.

One reason I haven't tried the truss rods yet is, I've heard that Rics are designed to have NO relief. The neck is supposed to be perfectly flat. And my straight edge tells me, this neck is flat like the proverbial board.

The other issue is having the right tool. In 1979, I ground down a 1/4" wrench so it would fit the truss rod cavity in my first Ric. Can't find that wrench now... but I definitely remember there was zero wiggle room to get a wrench in there.

still wrote:One reason I haven't tried the truss rods yet is, I've heard that Rics are designed to have NO relief

Well, that would be the theoretical ideal, however, an instrument should be set up to play as well as possible. So, if it needs a tad bit of relief to do so, then go for it.

Some multi-bit drivers have long shaft with thin wall that would work perfectly for a truss rod tool.

OMG, I just found the ground-down wrench. It must be a sign.

Brad,

Like you, I noticed that my 381 needs higher action to minimize fret buzz, in comparison with my other Rics. In my case, they've all been 12'ers. Despite the slightly higher action, my 381/12 still plays beautifully and sounds deep and jangly at the same time. Mine is a 2000, so it has scatterwound toasters and is an older Fireglo, which is more purple-red than orange-red, for lack of a better description. Played through my Vox AC15 (with an Alnico Blue speaker), it trumps all the other Rick 12's I've owned!

Robert

Whatever 10-gauge strings were on this 381 when I bought it were obviously higher tension than the ones I put on, because the buzzing started the second I tuned it up. I've been wondering if it's different cores; hex vs. round. I'll have to check, since I haven't tossed the original strings.

Played some with the truss rods last night and very quickly found I had removed ALL tension on the bass side. Not entirely clear which direction to turn.

Well Rics are magical and we all know that. This morning, the action is just where it needs to be. I wonder if it took a while for the wood to adjust???

Also: as a truss rod wrench, the little chrome one I bought at Home Depot the other day for $2.49 fits perfectly -- no grinding required. I think my older Ric may have been an anomaly.