Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Hi all - I'm reaching out to try and get a reality check as I feel I haven't had great luck trying to get a hold of a 2023 MG 330/12 that doesn't have some significant challenges (previous happy owner of a 4001 & 4003 for context)

First guitar came in about 2 weeks ago with what I would describe as really bad case of "bubbling" around the frets (see photo link below - it was like this on about 12 of the frets). The dealer took it back immediately no questions asked and offered to exchange for a new one. In addition, the truss rod was very hard to turn and the nut slots were cut way too low. I chalked it up to some bad luck with quality control - it happens.

Thankfully a new one came in last week, however, once I got the new one home immediately something seemed off - something didn't look right but I couldn't put my finger on it until I lay the guitar flat and saw that the neck is positively angled up from the body. The plane of the body and the neck are not the same. It causes the strings to exit the bridge really close to the pickup and then rise up quite a bit over the neck PUP as the strings angle up to meet the angle of the neck. As you would guess, the bridge has to be really lowered to get the action decent at the 12th fret. It's really hard to capture it in a photograph but I've attached links to a photo with angles added (strings detuned). I've reached out to the dealer - thus far they have been very responsive but not sure what outcome will be. I feel like a bit of a d-bag for bringing back two guitars but at the same time they are about 3k CAD and I think it's reasonable to expect a certain minimum standard of quality here.

My questions:

1) To confirm, a new Rick should basically have a neutral neck angle, correct? Its seems the only time this kind of neck angle comes up is in the context of a reset of a vintage instrument. Is it plausible that a 2023 Rick would leave the factory with the neck set at the wrong angle? I suppose anything is possible but it has me doubting my sanity. If I'm a moron, by all means, let me know - I'm here to learn!

2) Assuming the neck is off, is the poor finish (and now neck issue) just really bad luck or is the quality control generally not great these days. I'm not sure the dealer or I have a third go at this in them/me. It's a bit demoralizing to be honest.

Welcome any thoughts or feedback you have.

Thanks!

Pete

The bubbling: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ziy34rJHdNduqA2S8

The neck: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5vR9qXy22hRsncdu6

I had a concern regarding the neck on my Rose Morris 1996 a while back. While my problem seemed to be the opposite of yours (had to raise my bridge very high; action too high, minimal break angle), I did post some photos and there was a nice discussion. In my case the neck and body were parallel, or nearly so. I removed the strings and tailpiece (vibrato). That drawing of yours showing the parallel lines is pretty cool, but I think checking it out in actuality would give you a better idea of the differences between the body and neck planes. Since you have your strings and tailpiece on, I'd use an aluminum yardstick (placing the edge on frets), and cut it short so that it won't hit the tailpiece; an 18-inch ruler might be long enough, from mid-neck to bridge...? You can also check your neck relief accurately at this time. I think that the straighter the neck (ideally, no relief), the less problem you will have.

Anyway, you can look at my photos and read through the thread, even if it won't specifically apply to your situation; you might read something interesting. Of course, my 1996 (325 style) is a lot shorter than a 330, but the setups have to be essentially/relatively the same.

viewtopic.php?p=867887#p867887

I have a couple of 330s, a 6-string and a 12-string. I'll check later using the aluminum angles that I used in my other photos and report back my findings. (Well, maybe I'll have to use an aluminum yardstick, since stings are in place and I don't want to remove them; I'll figure it out.)

PS - Set the guitar up the best you can before taking back to the dealer. Point out the disparities and ask him if he/his tech can do better. If he can't, then both of you can agree to another exchange.

Hi - thanks so much for the reply. I took a page out of your playbook and checked the neck a bit more using a similar technique with some straight edges and while no expert, I'm sure (at least to my taste/eye) the neck set was wonky (although likely within spec - I'll admit to being particular).

Dealer was ultimately great about it and offered me the original 330 with the questionable lacquer job on the fretboard for a nice discount so I jumped on it - it's purely aesthetic at the end of day and can be fixed down the road...obviously a poor neck angle is a much bigger deal now and down the road. It was interesting playing the two back to back as I could really see the difference in neck angles - was quite marked.

Time to get down to some playing instead of driving around with guitars in my back seat!

Thanks again!

Good to hear. There is a fairly recent thread about that bubbling (maybe within the last six months). IIRC, the OP and the thread participants came to the same conclusion that you and your dealer came to. Congrats!

Thanks! Yes, seems a number of past discussions around the bubbling - looks pretty typical from what I can see. Seems like the solution is to play the hell out of it to work towards the re-fret