Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Hi Mark: I have a 4001S that has some clearcoat chipping between the 14th and 16th frets. Also, it's a really light colored rosewood fretboard, and the grain filler on it is kind of white looking. Too streaky for my tastes.

If I were to merely sand down the clearcoat and refinish, could I spray it with a nitrocellulose lacquer, with the fretwires taped off? I would like a thick gloss coat on the board like the CS basses have, so what's the best move?

Now, what about this nutty idea: I have tested a red mahogany stain on rosewood blanks, and it comes out looking a lot like the African Vermillion wood. However, it's an oil-based stain. If I were to restain the fretboard using this product (and a good grain filler, for the remaining pores), what lacquer type should I use over it? Or should I just stay home and watch tv?
Brian

Brian, I don't know What year a 4001S you have, but you won't get much results trying to stain the wood Rick uses to get it darker.I've tried this, and did not have good luck doing it.You might try[if you insist on doing this] Danish oil
[Watco] in a darker tint and see what happens.

Thanks for the information. It does seem like a longshot. By the way, it's a 1982. The previous owner must have had depth perception trouble in calculating the distance to his microphone stand , as the neck above the 12th fret has a lot of chips in the finish. What do you think about the clear coat idea? That stuff RIC puts on the neck isn't a polyurethane, is it? I'm wondering if I'd need to totally strip the clearcoat off before putting nitrocellulose lacquer to it, or maybe some other lacquer, as per any recommendations I receive in this forum. Thanks!

Yes you can stain it .

You need to know where and when to stop .

I use Potassium Dichromate (A nasty substance,you need a respirator and special gloves)

This plays with the tannic acid in the wood.You can darken it almost to the point of Indian rosewood.But ...The grain will leap out at you !

It turns it into a spectacular piece of wood.

This is a tricky process.

I would use a Catalyzed urethane for the fretboard or leave it bare.

To remove the finish use a Stanley (or any utility Knife blade as a scraper)

Then sand to 220 grit .The paste wood filler will come out if you use a little heat to soften the clear coat.

Don't dig into the frets,this is really easy to do.

Thanks, Mark. I'll give it a shot!

Mark,
do any bindings have to be removed before using the potassium dichromate, or can one go ahead once all clear coats and paint are scrapped ? Besides dressing like a space trooper... any other details to know before 'dichromating' the instrument ?
thanks
axel

When I apply the P.D. , I wear neoprene gloves,a tyvek suit and a respirator.I also wear a full facial shield ,but safety glasses are fine.

No ...binding does not ever have to come off .Not for fretting ,refretting ,dying ,finishing anything .Leave it alone .

You will need a scraper ,I recommend a utility knife blade .They can be known to cause injury so wrap a piece of tape aroung one end .I don't use the holder to scrape .

This works really well to remove any excess goo.

The P.D. can be applied using a piece of foam .It works really well .Wipe excess with a paper towel .

Let it set for 30 minutes before you think you need to add more.If you are spraying over this(and you should to retain the color change) ,let it dry overnight .Two or three caots is plenty of P.D.

thanks, Mark.
I guess if the wood of my ol' yello'ed 360 ain't that cute, one coat of PD will help...(will it?). I'll know for sure next week - can't wait to see it bare and natural.
axel