Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I am about to get a 12 string Rick, and although I am familiar with the 300 series 12's, I am also considering a 660/12. My local dealer has no 600 series at all, and I have never heard one.
Can someone address the distinction in sound, beyond the obvious "the 660 sounds like a solid body and the 300's don't."

Actually, I'm curious as to how much a luthier would charge to "Arnquistize" a 330/360 with the nut mod. . . What are ppl's experiences?

At the root of my question. . . I'm wondering if the cheaper price of a 360 compared to a 660 wouldn;t be offset by the purchase of the 12-saddle bridge and the (pretty much mandatory) nut mod.

If you have a good luthier/repairman who jnows how to cut a new nut from scratch, I don't know why it would be an issue to request a new nut slotted any way you needed it cut. Measuring is measuring, time is time, and price is price.A competent person can do it, no rocket science here.IMO

While I generally agree with you, Don, most luthiers (including your cousin) have not taken the time to fully analyze the fine details regarding string spacing on a 12-stringer.

For optimum results over the widest range of styles, you must:

1. Space each string pair differently.

2. Set the height of each of the strings separately, except for the first two pairs.

3. Disregard the centerlines of the strings when measuring, in other words, the spacing must reflect the target string gauge by looking at the distance from the side of one string to the next.

4. Allow for the helical string motion that varies with the size of each string (and type of string might be considered as well).

Grover Jackson and I spent considerable time developing a computer model of all these factors when we switched to doing nuts by CNC machine for ultimate accuracy.

I also strongly disagree with the practice of using the bound area of the fingerboard as a fretting surface as the plastic surface wears much faster and also has a vastly different coefficient of expansion for both humidity and temperature as compared to the wood.

One solution or other may work for you right now today but we have to produce instruments that perform for the long haul in the widest of musical situations.

I can only say the first time I played my 660/12 onstage I couldn't keep the big S***eatin' grin off my face. And I make it a habit never to smile, period. That baby rang, sang and sustained like nothing else. Alas, I have no live, loud experience with the 3 series. The wide neck on the 660 is nice, tho very flat. Quiet practice in one's home doesn't do justice to this particular guitar. I find the weight distribution fine.

I too don't feel the 660/12 is neck heavy. It balances quite nicely and is very lightweight overall.

While I generally agree with you, Don, most luthiers (including your cousin) have not taken the time to fully analyze the fine details regarding string spacing on a 12-stringer.

For optimum results over the widest range of styles, you must: etc., etc.,
Agreed.Most repair guys don't like 12 strings of Any kind, much less Ricks, anyway.If you have a repair guy that you really like who can accomodate all the weird personal things you need done, Hang On to him!!A final note for the Rick 12 o-philes out there, and I'm not telling you what you don't already know; there is nothing better than a properly set up Rick 12 string, conversely, the biggest pain in the.... you can have is one that is done wrong, or has been let go to hell.